Entries from Denali
Monday, June 24, 2019 - 9:56 PM PT
Two inches of snow covered our tents in the wee hours this morning at
9,500' on the Kahiltna. It was still falling at 3:30 when the alarms went off so we gave it another 30 minutes to shape up. Sure enough, at 4 AM things were looking better. We rallied and ate breakfast in our dining tent. At 5:40 it was time for moving up. The walking was pretty easy, despite the new snow and it was all very quiet, traveling in muffled cloudy conditions. In an hour’s time we were at Kahiltna Pass at 10,000', the very northernmost start to the 47 mile long glacier. Time to turn right and go up some steeper hill to 11,000', which we did. We reached the camp at around 8 AM, having walked out of the clouds in the process. It was a spectacular and novel setting, up close to some great hanging ice cliffs and towering rock buttresses. We dug a raven-proof cache in the snow and buried the food, fuel, and equipment we’d carried. It was then an easy and pleasant walk down with light packs and empty sleds. Finally it was a relief to come into our already established camp at 9500 ft and relax. There was no digging to be done or tents to put up, which was just as well. It got blazing hot, even with all of the cloud lingering. We napped away another quiet afternoon.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Monday, June 24, 2019 - 1:19 PM PT
We're taking a rest day today after a big day yesterday and in preparation of moving to
High Camp on Denali for our summit bid. The weather is sunny today even though snow and clouds were forecasted. We're hoping to move to High Camp in the next day or two if we get a weather forecast that looks favorable for a summit attempt. In the meantime, we're resting and acclimating and getting stronger.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 10:01 PM PT
We slept in all the way until 2:30 this morning down at the base of Ski Hill. It rained a little in the middle of the night, but by the time we got up the sky was clear and it was refreshingly cool. We’d busted down camp and were waddling uphill on our snowshoes by 4:45 AM. Our challenge for the day was to gain 1,700 feet in elevation up a series of hills. Views were tremendous as we rose up over the lower Kahiltna. The
South Face of Denali with the Cassin ridge charging up the middle was on our right, Kahiltna Dome on our left. There was ice pouring off of every slope and plateau. At around 9,000 ft we could tell that snow had fallen rather than rain, but it was only on the order of a half inch. At 8:15 we rolled onto the flats at 9500 and set up a new camp. There was the usual frenzy of digging to establish tent platforms, a kitchen, latrine, and dining room. By now though we are getting practiced and skilled at the chores that stand between us and a nap. Once the sun is directly on us, it cooks everything and we take refuge in our shelters and beg for an occasional breeze. Dinner brings us together again late in the day and we go over the plan for what comes next. In this case, what comes next is a carry to 11,000 and a return to 9500.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 8:50 PM PT
What a beautiful day! We are so thankful that the weather has been amazing so far. We will definitely not be fooled into thinking that the mountain won't throw some weather our way soon!
We had a long day bringing a bunch of food, fuel, CMC's, and extra warm clothing up to our next camp at 14,000'. The climbing was great and the crew had a good time. It was nice to be able to see
Denali again since our view is obstructed at our camp at 11k.
We all earned our afternoon naps before a hearty dinner of Tasty Bites Indian food with rice.
We are all excited to move up to 14k tomorrow... if the weather is nice to us!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete
On The Map
Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 6:53 PM PT
We woke early again this morning and the weather did not disappoint. Clear skies with a beautiful early morning alpenglow on Foraker and Hunter greeted us as we fired the stoves. We woke the team at 5am and we were on the move by 7am. Our goal: to get a cache of food and fuel up high on the West Buttress Ridge, ideally to high camp at 17,200'.
The sun was still behind the
West Rib of Denali and we climbed the approach slopes and most of the fixed ropes in the shade. The sun found us at around 16,000' and was a welcome companion for the rest of the day as the team climbed the aesthetic ridge from 16,200' to 17,200'. We made it to high camp in good form and dug a hole in the snow in which to leave our cache. After an hour and a half breathing the rare air of 17,200', we descended back to camp, the climb took us almost 5 1/2 hours and we descended in 2 1/2 hours.
We'll enjoy a good night's rest tonight and then take a rest day tomorrow. That should put us in perfect position to take advantage of the next good weather window for a summit bid.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Saturday, June 22, 2018 - 9:43 PM PT
All is well at 7,800 ft on the
Kahiltna Glacier. At 30 minutes after midnight we fired the stoves at Basecamp and checked with the folks. This time all were feeling good and healthy and ready for climbing. We ate breakfast in the shadows -it doesn’t get dark this time of year, but it does get cool and shadowy without direct sunshine. We packed up and roped up and began shuffling out of base at 3:15 AM. Conditions were excellent -the surface had frozen up enough so that walking was easy and the sleds came along with minimal resistance. Best of all, crevasse problems were nearly nonexistent and the route was consequently more direct than in other years. Partway through our morning, we met Mike King’s victorious team heading for the airstrip. We exchanged handshakes and fist bumps and wished each other well. At 7:45 AM we pulled in to the base of ski hill and began building a camp. The sun was out by then but we had plenty of time to get shelter up before things got intensely hot in the giant reflector oven we call home. We passed the day napping, drinking water and chatting to one another. By evening there was a steady down glacier breeze but we were comfortably sheltered within our dining tent by then.
Tomorrow is another early start.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Saturday, June 22, 2019 8:28 PM PT
We had a very productive and somewhat relaxing day. Last night brought a bit of snow, but miraculously stopped right as our alarms went off this morning.
We left camp and headed down hill to do a back-carry. This just means that we went down to pick up the gear we cached at
10K. The group did great as they have proven to do every day so far!
After we returned to camp we cooked a great breakfast and worked on recovering by napping and sport eating.
Weather permitting, our plan is to cache food and gear at 14K tomorrow. The climbing continues!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete
On The Map
Saturday, June 22, 2019 - 4:07 PM PT
We got an early start, up at 12:30am at 11k Camp and got to the airstrip by 8:30am. In the process we kicked, pulled, punched and cussed our heavy sleds as they barrel rolled, tipped and flipped down Ski Hill into 7800’ Camp. From there the clouds and ominous skies that had hung over us from Kahiltna Pass began to clear and we got some spectacular views of the surrounding peaks. We hit the bottom of Heartbreak Hill and 50 minutes later were at the airstrip. All sorted and ready for the De Havilland turbo Otters to arrive we kicked back for a few moments to reminisce on a great trip and felt kind of bad for the fresh meat just heading out for their first day on
Denali.
Currently back in Talkeetna, a quick breakfast at the Roadhouse and now sorting gear for flights home. Looking forward to showers, burgers and beers, not necessarily in that order. We will reconvene for dinner and a session at the Fairview to bring a close to a wonderful 3 weeks on Denali. RMI-5 signing off, thanks for all the blog comments and support along the way.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Saturday, June 22, 2019 2:34 PM PT
We're taking a planned rest day today to better acclimate and get strong for our forays on the
upper mountain. The day began clear and we enjoyed a leisurely brunch as the sun warmed our cook tent. Now, in the afternoon, clouds have risen and there are a few snow flakes falling. Everyone has retreated to their tents for some rest, reading, and relaxation. We will review and practice the technical skills needed to ascend the fixed ropes, which run from ~15,200' - 16,000'. We plan to head up there tomorrow to take a cache of supplies up high before returning to our comfortable 14k Camp. We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Friday, June 21, 2019 - 10:18 PM PT
We are sitting in the sun at
11K Camp. Happy Solstice! We have over 19 hours of daylight and it never gets dark anyway.
We had a great climb up here from our last camp. The team is really performing well with all of the hard work it takes to climb this mountain.
We have our submissions for the haiku contest. If you would like to vote for your favorite, please leave us a message on the blog. As most climbing trips tend to do eventually, many of our conversations and most of these haikus center around the clean mountain cans (CMC's) that we use to collect and remove our human waste from the mountain. What these lack in elegance and beauty, they make up for with creativity!
1)
Loners crevasse it
But all guides and their clients
Leave no brown behind
2)
Dinner so spicy
Feeling it burning my insides
CMC lookout
3)
Sleep eat hike eat sleep
Heavy load and extreme temps
All to make the top
4)
Mountain CMC
Thank you for taking our crap
You're a team player
5)
When I'm not at work
I crap in cans; hope for sun
Still better than work
6)
Scaling Denali
Be sure to use riser bars (on snowshoes)
Unless you are Grayson
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete
On The Map
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Aloha from Hawai’i! It may usually be a tropical paradise out here, but so far today it’s all heavy rain and thunderstorms (which are a real rarity). Loving all the pictures, and hope everyone is having a great time on the climb. Keep getting stronger, and can’t wait to hear more soon! Sending positive vibes to everyone on the team, especially our friend Eric. :)
Posted by: Savannah on 6/25/2019 at 11:58 am
Alec,
I’m following the blog everyday. All of you stay safe. The pictures are gorgeous.
Love,
Owa
Posted by: Owa on 6/24/2019 at 2:39 pm
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