Entries By taylor bickford
January 14, 2019
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Taylor Bickford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 18,997'
Hello from Cafe La Vaca, in the town of Cayambe. We have all arrived safely from the mountain and are getting ready to power down massive hamburgers to replenish our bodies after 11 straight hours of climbing this morning.
Oh, did I mention the team made a successful summit of
Cayambe? I am so distracted by hamburgers I almost forgot the important details.
We woke at 11:30 this morning to cloudy skies but warm temps. We started up the mountain at 12:30 and were standing on top in perfect weather by 7:15am. It was one of the most glorious summit days I’ve ever had on this mountain. Somebody cashed in some big karma bucks to get this forecast.
Once at the hut the wind picked up and the clouds rolled in. Perfect timing again!
Now we will feast, bathe and sleep. Our big mountains are just beginning so rest is imperative to staying healthy and strong.
Sending big hugs to all of our family and friends back home.
Will write again tomorrow.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
January 13, 2019
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Taylor Bickford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,100'
We started our day bright and early at the
Cayambe refugio with a simple breakfast and coffee. Although the first night sleeping at 15,100' can be a little rough, the team rallied from the altitude hangover to the toe of the glacier to review climbing skills. After some time practicing rope travel and self arrest, the guides demonstrated a crevasse rescue scenario and anchor building principles. After a lesson in rope ascension in the hut, we began packing for our summit attempt. The team is feeling good up high and ready for the climb!
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
January 13, 2019
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Taylor Bickford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,000'
La Casa Sol means The house of sun in English. This happens to be the name of the beautiful hacienda we were staying at before leaving to go into Otavalo and then transport to the high mountain hut located at 15,000 feet on the southern flanks of Nevado Cayambe, Our first “big” objective and the highest equatorial point on the planet. Luckily the house of sun lived up to its name and for a few brief hours we were blessed with the hot Ecuador rays we had been lacking most of the trip.
With a nice morning shaping up we left Casa Sol and headed into town for our shopping extravaganza. The market in Otavalo is unique in many ways. Cooking stalls, spice merchants, local goods and unlimited crafts make this shopping experience hard to do in 90 minutes. But the team did well not filling the bus so by lunch it was off to meet the 4x4 trucks that would drive us all up the
Cayambe road which makes New York potholes seem like cereal bowls.
Of course the sun didn’t last long and by midway through the drive the skies opened up and the rain poured down. So like all mountain weather just wait ten minutes and it will change. Which it did. To snow. And then to clear and then back to snow.
By dinner we had a few great views of the mountain which got us excited to train the next day. For the rest of the evening we will focus on hydration and breathing to keep us feeling healthy at this new head throbbing altitude. Once again the team is doing great and getting along famously. We look forward to another mountain day together.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff & Team Ecuador signing off.
January 11, 2019
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Taylor Bickford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 13,986'
Today started the same as most days do. Breakfast from the hotel, coffee to wash it down sparking us awake and getting us close to the chocolate-filled croissants we have all learned to take with us on the mountain providing a superior snack to any energy bar. This morning was different however because we checked out of the hotel, loaded the Magic bus and powered north through traffic thicker than sea level air to a mountain two hours north of Quito called
Fuya Fuya. Don’t get this confused with the famous mount Kung Fuya Fuya located next to Mt. Fuji in Japan, it is a lesser objective but important in our acclimating nonetheless.
After all the traffic, winding cobblestone roads and slow going, we reached Laguan Mojando, a beautiful high caldera lake very similar to Crater Lake in Oregon. Situated at 12,000 feet, we had in-and-out views of the surrounding peaks, including our objective, Mt. Fuya Fuya. With a summit sitting right at 14,000 feet, it was not as high as our mountain yesterday but offered steep hiking and challenging footwork. I always start this day off with a quickened pace just to get the blood flowing. As the team assembled after seven minutes of power walking up a hill over 12,500ft, Dirk looked at me and said, “Man, altitude is no joke, but it’s still kind of funny”. Which said it all considering we were all hunched over like we had just run the hundred yard dash but smiling at the pain we were all in.
A steep hour later the entire team stood on the summit with warm temps, periodic views of the deep blue lake far below and a growing respect for the Ecuadorian experience. It was another good day for the team.
Once we returned to the bus our flip flops greeted us and we headed back down the hill to eat lunch and relax at Casa Sol, a beautiful hacienda located high above the town of Otavalo. It is in this town we will all attempt to spend as much money as possible buying gifts for all the blog followers and maybe some loved ones at the giant craft market located in the center of town.
Until then we will relax with a beer, tie some knots, repack our bags and prepare for tomorrow.
Wishing you all well in the states,
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
January 10, 2019
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Taylor Bickford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,411'
Today we continued our acclimatization with a hike of
Rucu Pichincha (15,411'), a peak nearby in Quito. A teleferico (gondola) carried us to about 13,000', where we began ascending. Although a light rain greeted us on our arrival, the precip quickly gave way to a pleasant mixture of clouds and clear skies. The team made the summit in good style, but unfortunately the clouds obstructed our views. We made it back down to the gondola just in time to avoid a torrential downpour, and returned to the city to relax and prepare for our move to Otavalo. The team is in great spirits and everyone handled the altitude very well!
RMI Guide Taylor Bickford
RMI Guide Steve Gately called in from the Summit of Mt. Shuksan. The team reached the summit via the
Fisher Chimneys route. The team climb strong and efficiently making it possible climb the summit pyramid in 45 minutes. The weather was clear, but smoke from wildfires did fill the air. The team is on their descent and headed back to their high camp where they will spend the evening, tomorrow they will trek out returning to Glacier, WA.
Congratulations to today's team!
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team climbed both Sahale and Sharkfin Tower yesterday. The team reported great climbing and 100% to the top for the two peaks! Today, the team climbed Forbidden Peak by its iconic and classic West Ridge and were standing on the summit at 10:20 this morning.
Way to go team!
July 15, 2018
Posted by: Zeb Blais, Taylor Bickford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 8,816'
Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 12:56 PM PT
This afternoon we received a dispatch from
RMI Guide Zeb Blais on
Forbidden Peak in Washington State's Cascade Pass. The team reported beautiful weather and a successful climb. They will spend some time on top before beginning their descent of the technical West Ridge.
Congratulations climbers!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the
Four Day Summit Climb July 6 - 9 made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Casey reported windy conditions as they began their descent from the crater rim at 7:30 AM PT. The team will descend to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!
The
Kautz Seminar, led by
Steve Gately, was on top of Mt. Rainier at 9:45 a.m. The team is working their way back to their camp where they will stay another night and descend from the mountain tomorrow.
Congratulations to our Seminar team!
This mountain looks awesome. Hope you are enjoying your adventure.
Mary (Chris’s mom)
Posted by: Mary Accettura on 1/14/2019 at 9:19 pm
This mountain is awesome, congratulations, hope you are enjoying the good time.
Mary Accettura (Chris’s mom)
Posted by: Mary Accettura on 1/14/2019 at 9:18 pm
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