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Entries By tatum whatford


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Halt Summit Attempt Due to Weather

Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 6:42 pm PT

Today didn't work out exactly as planned. When we got up it was calm as promised, but a complete white out in camp. Snow was falling lightly, straight down. We dragged our feet to see how it would evolve. As the sun came up, the clouds did push up a bit, and with some sight it was clear the wind was moving strong up high. Within a few hours, that wind made it to camp as well. So we spent the day in the tents dodging intermittent snow showers and wind gusts.

We are hoping that tomorrow brings us better summit weather and that Mother Denali let's us pass.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Good luck to you and the team!

Posted by: Marilyn Goltry on 5/29/2023 at 3:53 pm


Denali: Van Deventer and Team build camp at 17k

May 27, 2023 7:28PM PT

Things were exactly as we hoped this morning, calm, and blue above.

We woke earlier than most, and had our chores taken care of quickly to get out of camp.

We were roughly the second team out, which turned out to be the right move as it seemed like nearly everyone at 14 headed to the fixed lines today. From the top, we could see a near to continuous line that stretched back to 14.

We made good time and rolled into camp at 17 around 4pm. Then started the laborious work of building camp. It's hard to do anything up here quickly - walk, shovel, stand up too fast, so it took some time, but we are now settled in - working on melting snow for water and hoping that tomorrow gives us our summit shot.

Pete, Henry, Tatum and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Go Bailey! Hope the weather window is good and that you get an amazing summit push! Stay safe!

Posted by: Cecilie on 5/28/2023 at 9:29 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Hang at 14,000’ Camp

Thursday 5/25/2023 10:00pm PDT

Another good rest/ weather day for us today. The snow, clouds, and breeze were in and out and it was an obvious day to sit. 14,000’ Camp on Denali is turning into a small city as more and more teams move up and run into the same weather waiting game. When we first moved up there were only a handful of scattered camps. Now 14,000’ Camp is continuous, and you can meander around, walking down alleys between snow walls.The team took on a variety of tacks to stay entertained. One intrepid member measured the perimeter of camp to be a quarter mile and did a 5k, jogging some of it. A few members even joined in at points. Others wandered around and chatted with other RMI Expedition Teams. And one member has now read the ingredient list of all their snack food!

Tomorrow looks to be more of the same and already the team has made plans to build an igloo, and perhaps more - the site plan is still being finalized. The 14,000’ Camp hang continues

RMI Guides Pete, Henry, Tatum & Team

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest and Wait at 14,000’ Camp

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 11:14 pm PT

It was a good day for us to sit. Yesterday's strong effort meant everyone slept well, and long. We got up late, enjoyed our last bagels and smoked salmon, told stories, and generally enjoyed the rest day. Snow and clouds intermittently invaded camp, with some breaks of brilliantly strong sunshine. For a bit of movement and boredom cure, we built a bunch of walls to deflect the wind that may come tomorrow. Tomorrow, we will rest again, as the forecast calls for winds at 17,000' to elevate significantly tomorrow. We'll see how this weather system plays out, and it's good comfort for us to know that all of our pieces are in place and when the window opens, we'll be ready.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go get that summit Adam! Can’t wait to hear about the whole adventure when you get home and hope to see you front and center in the picture at summit! Good luck everyone!

Posted by: Matt & Erica Warren on 5/25/2023 at 6:46 pm

Brian,
I’ve been following the daily updates with great interest.  Patience appears to be huge part of a climbers’ requirements.  Praying for your team safety and clear weather for your summit push.
Best Regards
Bruce

Posted by: Larabee Bruce on 5/25/2023 at 11:31 am


Denali Expeditions: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at 17,000 ft Camp

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 9:00 am PT

The climbing along the West Buttress is some of the most fun and aesthetic of the whole Denali trip and we got a perfect day for it. We left early, with camp still in the shade and chilly. But we climbed out into the sun within the first hour. The fixed lines, which has been blue blue ice when we first got to 14,000' had pasted in with the last couple days of snow and there were nice steps kicked in for most of the way. We rolled over the top of the line onto the ridge to stunning views that extended forever. We could see trees from our perch (or at least green). We continued along the Buttress, picking our way through the airy terrain will above 14,000' Camp and the Peters Glacier on the other side. By afternoon, we walked into 17,000' Camp. Doing most anything at 17,000' is hard. You have to show down - how fast you walk, shovel, etc. We got a hole dug and left our goodies, then retraced our steps back to 14,000' Camp. The team did an incredible job and got the trip done in 10 hours. We were back in camp for dinner time. Things are set and now we wait for the weather to open a summit window.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Train and Prepare to Ascend Fixed Lines

Monday, May 22, 2023 - 10:11 pm PT

It was an incredibly pleasant day at 14,000'. It snowed lightly all night but when we woke up it was bluebird and calm. We took our time over breakfast (again) and started to wrap our heads around the schedule and logistics above here. We did an afternoon training session to prepare for the fixed lines and running belays of the West Buttress above, then retired for a warm and sunny siesta. The rest was part of the plan as we intend to head up the fixed lines and along the West Buttress tomorrow to put in a small cache and get familiar with the terrain. With that complete, the puzzle pieces that we have control over will be in place for our summit push.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy belated Birthday Juan! Hope you and the crew are safe and enjoying yourselves. Can’t wait to hear all about it.

Posted by: Mike Jenison on 5/23/2023 at 6:57 pm

Keep going Bailey!! Atlas has been shrugging.

Posted by: Stewart Beshears on 5/23/2023 at 5:40 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Retrieve Cache at Windy Corner

Sunday, May 21, 2023 - 9:59 pm PDT

It was a wonderful morning to wake up at 14k Camp. A classic 14k Camp morning includes sunshine and stunning views of Hunter and Foraker -- make this trip so special. We waited for the sun to warm the tents, and rolled into coffee with eggs, hashbrowns, and bacon for breakfast/brunch. We readied to run back towards Windy Corner to grab our cache. We made quick work of the back carry, 1.5 hours round trip, largely due to the sudden snow squalls and wind that rolled in hard on us. It motivated us to get back to tents. With all of our stuff now at 14k Camp, we are psyched. The weather looks to remain sporty tomorrow, so we will likely rest, but we are in place and ready to make our first tour up the fixed lines when the mountain says we may pass, and that will set us up to start looking for our summit window. Cheers from 14,000' on Denali!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Just wanted to let Bailey know I’m rooting for her! Enjoy the beautiful mountain, and good luck with the summit push to the whole group! (I hope this is the right group).

Posted by: Cecilie on 5/23/2023 at 5:13 am

Woot Woot!! Looks Amazing up there!

Posted by: Pete on 5/22/2023 at 10:34 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make New Home at 14,000ft

Saturday, May 21, 2023 - 11:27 pm PT

Big moves today. We bounced back and forth on whether to move this morning, as it snowed all night and was still when we woke up. After a bit of waffling we decided it was time. Though it was pretty cloudy and white at 11,000', it was dead calm, and it looked much the same above. We stayed in that cloud until Windy Corner and it was HOT. It acted much like a microwave and we were sweating, both from heat and loads. The theme was pretty similar to yesterday - our travel was smooth, it was hard work, but the team was strong and we clipped right along. Six hours after leaving 11,000', we walked into our new home at 14,000'. 

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

VERY excited to hear the summit word!!!!  Hoping for good weather behavior and smooth climbing.
Lots of folks here in “the middle” are watching and pulling for you all.

Posted by: Betsy Wearing on 5/22/2023 at 12:53 pm

。:.゚ヽ(*´∀`)ノ゚.:。

That’s a YAY face!
Great job! Proud of my guy!

Posted by: Lyds on 5/21/2023 at 5:32 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Cache Gear at Windy Corner

Friday, May 19, 2023 10:30pm PDT

We had a quite pleasant jaunt up to Windy Corner and around today to cache. It was good to make another step forward and get a load of food and fuel stashed up near 14,000’. Things are looking promising to move to 14,000’ soon, our first chance is tomorrow and hopefully we wake up and things look good to go. It's been Nice to be at 11,000', but we have seen enough of it and it's time to move on.

Our day today was calm, mostly clear, and very warm. The team was fully in sync, and we made short work of the round trip and walked back into camp looking fresh as ever. Juan chose mac and cheese for his birthday dinner, so we also had something to celebrate today.

All around, spirits are high, and life is good.

RMI Guides Pete, Henry, and Tatum

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Denal Expedition: VanDeventer and Team Cache Gear ready to Move to 14,000’ Camp

Thursday, May 18, 2023 8:12 pm PDT

Finally, we got to stretch our legs today!

We woke to beautiful conditions in camp, the first time we haven't woken to the tents flapping and slapping. We smashed an oatmeal breakfast and coffee and grabbed backpacks, sleds, and snowshoes and beat feet back to our hole in the snow that held all our best food and treats. We made quick work of the day, three hours round trip, and came back to sunny camp, warm tents, and dry sleeping bags. It was also our last day hauling sleds until we descended for good. So, when we walked into camp there was much rejoicing.

Tomorrow we plan to carry another cache up high to Windy Corner or 14 Camp depending. That will set us up to be ready to make a big move to 14!

RMI Guides Pete, Henry, Tatum and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Let’s go team!  I have a hard time thinking about Brian being stuck inside a tent for days and nights. Hope he has a tent mate that likes to play cards!  Moving and climbing are much more fun.  Miss you hubby!  Jack and I are following along and wishing you well while Lou meditates silently onn your climb.

Posted by: Tory Goltry on 5/20/2023 at 8:15 am

Wonderful to hear…“sunny camp, warm tents, and dry sleeping bags” - the simple pleasures of life on a mountain.

Praying for you all, and have a special place in my heart for my niece Bailey. She is an inspiration to her friends and family.

Posted by: Uncle C on 5/20/2023 at 7:33 am

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