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Entries By seth burns


Denali Expedition: Cifelli & Team are on the Move

The jagged, monolithic peaks of the lower Kalithna begin to make themselves visible again.

We have just torn down camp. The anticipation of this moment has been building even greater since our departure was delayed by yesterday’s fog. The midnight sunshine just beyond the horizon still illuminates us deep into the night making the time of 1:55am seem wildly incorrect. We begin to move.

It’s now 3:12am. We’ve descended the hazy 600ft from base camp and sit just beyond the danger of the house-sized seracs looming off the side of Mt. Frances. Directly in front of us as we sit and replenish ourselves with food and drink is Mt. Crosson. Just left of it looms the beautiful Mt. Foraker, its upper half hidden just hidden behind a small cloud system. Our rest comes to an end. It’s time to begin the ever so slightly increasing grade up towards our next camp.

As we move the air is light and serene. Other than the sound of our snowshoes crunching the snow beneath our feet and our sleds sliding, there is no other noise for miles around us. In my left earbud plays Fryslan by Phil Cook. The pattern of our movement becomes hypnotic. My world becomes managing my pace to avoid stepping on the rope in front of me, interspersed with seconds of beholding the ether that surrounds me. To our right, an orange and magenta hue begins to materialize in the Alaskan sky as the sun begins to return from its brief absence beyond the horizon. Looking upward towards it presents our desired destination, veiled in a partially transparent fog, like a bride on her wedding day, Denali appears. It beams with a beauty matched by very few other things in this world.

We continue forward entranced by the sight. The weight of our heavy packs and sleds begin to melt away as we gaze upon the peak. A solemnity fills the moment that feels religious in nature. There is no more music playing in my earbuds. It is just the rhythmic beating of our snowshoes that fills my ears, and this epic sight that fills my eyes. I am totally absorbed. Quickly as this moment came, so it did depart, as again the mountain would hide itself behind an immense fog, abruptly returning us to the physical realm.

Enriched by this experience, we press forward, climbing steeper terrain before reaching a plateau which will lead us to our next camp site. The going is slow and heavy. Chilling cold air pockets move through our path at times. We break one final time before making the final mile push to camp. Upon arrival our guides probe the area upon which we will be building our living quarters for the next couple days (hopefully). We finish just before 9am. Crawling into our sleeping bags for “night,” we adorn the proper attire of sleeping masks to block out the now powerfully shining rays of the sun to spend the day resting for the journey which is set to continue early tomorrow morning once again.

As I now lay in my sleeping bag, my tent mates asleep beside me, I sense a number of emotions within me: satisfaction, anxiety, excitement, connectedness, all of which seem to stem from the same place: a determination to succeed at this challenge as a team. I close my eyes as gentle folk music softly plays in my earbuds once again. “One thing at a time,” I remind myself.

For now, all there is to do is to rest.

RMI Climber Thomas Goossen 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Seeing this team out there and tackling such challenging terrain is inspiring. We would love to know what drives your every step. I’m sure all will have great stories to share when they return. Can’t wait to hear them. Get them ready.

Posted by: Matt and Maria on 6/18/2024 at 6:25 pm

Beautifully written Thomas!!  Your words not only provide a visual but you can almost feel the emotion!!  So proud of you!!  Wishing you and your mates a safe journey to the top!!

Posted by: Aunty Gwen on 6/17/2024 at 9:08 pm


Denali Expeditions: Cifelli & Team Remain at Basecamp

Wednesday, June 12, 2024 - 2:13 pm PT

Stuck at Basecamp

Today was going to be the day, the start of the trip. The launching point of our grand adventure. We were ready. We had practiced our ice axe arrest, learned how to rig our sleds, and relearned how to use the bathrooms here. The CMCs. We went to bed anxious, ready, and excited. But that’s when the snow started, and kept going. We were socked in a cloud with no sign of any mountains around us and no viable window for a move to our next camp. So we sat and sat and drank coffee waiting for our time to come. When the sun finally showed itself, it was just too warm (I know, shocker) to head out. The biggest crevasses on our climb form on the lower Kahiltna and with the mushy snow from the strong sun/ warming temps plus the variable weather, we stayed at Basecamp. We’ll try again tomorrow to get to the base of Ski Hill, our Camp 1.

Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hoping the weather holds! Best of luck to the team!

Posted by: Cheryl Goossen on 6/13/2024 at 9:25 pm

Hope for good weather.

Posted by: Steven McKinley on 6/12/2024 at 6:58 pm


Mt. Rainier: Burns, Hoffman & Teams Turned at 11,200 ft

The Four Day Climb teams led by RMI Guides Seth Burns and Sam Hoffman reached Ingraham Flats, 11,200', this morning on their summit attempt.  Due to unstable snow conditions the teams decided to call this their high point today and returned safely to Camp Muir.  Climbers are packing up their gear and enjoying a bit more time on the mountain before starting their descent to Paradise. They will return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. 

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

I was in Sam’s, George’s and Ray’s group and I am extremely impressed and grateful for their service, professionalism and courtesy. I received more than I could have hoped for in my need for great and safe guidance in this adventure!

Posted by: John McGrath on 6/6/2024 at 2:55 pm


Mt. Rainier: Burns & Emmons Seminar Team Reach Summit

The Expedition Skill Seminar - Emmons May 26 - 31, led by RMI Guide Seth Burns, Mike Bennett, Will Ambler and Thomas Skoog reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today via the Emmons Glacier route.  The team hit the crater rim around 11: 30 am today and due to high winds and big gusts started their descent shortly after.  They returned to Camp Schurman around 2:30 pm and will spend a final night at camp.  They will start their descent tomorrow morning, getting back to the trail in the afternoon.  We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp tomorrow afternoon.

Congratulations team!

PC: Tom Skoog and Seth Burns

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Strong work team. Props to Mike & the crew. Hope to see you out there in a month!

Posted by: Joe Mueller on 5/31/2024 at 8:45 am


Mt. Rainier: May 25th Team Turns Due to High Winds

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Dominic Cifelli reached 12,300' on Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reached the mid-point of Disappointment Cleaver, but the strong winds of 40 - 50 mph forced the team make the decision to descend safely back to Camp Muir. They will return to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford later this afternoon. 

Congratulations Team! 

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

That photo looks like something out of a movie—pretty otherworldly.

Posted by: Some guy from Puyallup on 5/25/2024 at 10:06 pm


Mt. Rainier: Cloud Cap Turns Climb Around

The Mt. Rainier Four-Day climb led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Sam Hoffman turned around at 11,500 this morning due to deteriorating weather. They are currently enjoying a sunny Camp Muir morning. They will recollect themselves at Camp Muir before their descent back to Basecamp in Ashford this afternoon. Nice work team!

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Mt. Baker: Summit and Awesome Ski Descent!

RMI Guide Seth Burns and Team were on the summit of Mt. Baker this morning. They enjoyed some great turns on the Squak glacier during their training yesterday. Their training came in handy to help them get to the summit of Mt. Baker today.

Nice work team!

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Team Trains at Camp Muir

The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Daniel May completed their Orientation and Climbing School days and then ascended to Camp Muir on Saturday.  Today they were able to do some training at Camp Muir, then packed up their gear and descended to Paradise.  The team will conclude their program this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp. 

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Mt. Rainier: Bond, Burns & Team Conclude Week of Training

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir team led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Seth Burns has concluded their week of training and returned to Paradise.  Although the weather threw a few curves at them, the team was able to get in lots of training including cramponing, glacier travel, ice climbing, rappelling, and crevasse rescue. We can probably consider it winter camping as well. They endured some cold temperatures but also enjoyed some beautiful sunrises and sunshine.

Nice work team!

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Mt. Rainier: 2024 Rainier Season Begins!

The first trip of the Mt. Rainier season is always a special one and just like that, it has come and gone. We spent the week learning skills like crevasse rescue, rappelling, glacier travel, the basics of snow safety, and even some fixed line travel. It was a busy week!  We didn’t make the summit and in mountaineering, that’s part of the game. Sometimes the mountain, no matter how much we want it, just says no to going up high. It’s a tough pill, but a worthwhile one to take in stride and with conviction that the decision was the right one.  We’ll take home the skills, the memories, and the bug to come back and try again another day. 

The weather is becoming wetter and windier and looks to be trending that way for our descent tomorrow. The hot food, showers, and beds in town will be that much sweeter. 

Cheers to a great week and a great start to the season,  Team!

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

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