Entries By pete van deventer
May 16, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 15, 2023 - 8:00 pm PT
It was a windy, snowy day at 11,000' Camp. The kind that had us happy to linger in sleeping bags until late. Eventually we rose and put some energy into solidifying camp before we plowed through a bunch of hot breakfast burritos. Weather days are for spending in tents so we spent a fair amount of time horizontal, welcome after yesterday's effort. As the afternoon wore on we were ready for movement so we got to building some walls to deflect the wind and make life a bit more pleasant. Much like building with adult legos, made out of snow. So now we have quite a habitable spot, a good thing since this weather system may stick around for a few more days.
May 15, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Tatum Whatford, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Sunday, May 14, 2023 - 9:49 pm PT
The mountain reminded us how strong she is today and have us a good fight. We woke to sun and warm temps in camp and the beginnings of a beautiful day. We packed up camp and started moving uphill again to 11. At first we moved with better vis, views, and a little jump in our step. But as we walked the clouds from yesterday moved back in with a stiff wind and a lot of blowing snow. Quite quickly we had little visibility and following the tracks of previous climbers became quite difficult. But the team was warm, had all the gear we needed to move in the weather, so we marched on with the help of GPS. After a good battle and a longer day than anticipated, we made it to 11,000' Camp. Tents were a welcome sight but the battle wasn't over. We still had a few hours of camp constructing to do before we would be in our shelters. The team worked really well together and rallied it out, and now we are sitting snug In tents and sleeping bags, reminiscing about the day.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
May 13, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
Saturday, May 13, 2023 - 7:03 pm PT
A gentle shushhhh of snow falling on the tent woke us this morning. We were the central theme in the snow globe as snow fell quietly and windlessly down. We lingered over coffee and bagel sandwiches letting the day progress. We really couldn't see much, but it was calm, warm enough, and we had a nice camp to return to, so we finally sorted some loads out, loaded packs and sleds, and turned uphill again to go cache. We walked through a milky white world for several hours before we decided that we had done enough, and further walking was going to involve a lot of feel and not much sight. So we dug quite a large hole and left our loads there under the snow to be retrieved in a few days time. The walk down went quite quickly, and after an hour we were back at camp where the clouds were lifting and the sun was blazing at max intensity. We are currently enjoying a short siesta, before a hearty dinner of reindeer gumbo. We plan to pack up camp tomorrow and trade up to an abode at 11,000'.
We'll be in touch.
I’m with you, Mama Goltry! Looks like our daughter is the only female on the trip besides the guides. Quite an adventure but I am looking forward to the “we made the summit and are on our way down” post.
Posted by: Karlyn Sullivan on 5/14/2023 at 8:18 pm
From 94 degrees in Tucson, I am doing my best work with tequila to not think about hubby on a glacier in the freezing cold. But alas, there are not enough margaritas in the world to keep me from missing my mountain man. Reindeer gumbo is right up his alley. Keep on trekking! Enjoy the journey! Can’t wait to see the photos. Mama Goltry
Posted by: Tory Goltry on 5/13/2023 at 9:51 pm
May 13, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
The team did strong work today, shouldering a load out of base camp that would have made an ox shudder. Each climber probably had north of 100lbs of gear between pack and sled. We schussed down Heart Break Hill relatively smoothly, given the load and started the long, gradual accent of the Kahiltna. The weather was beyond perfect. Blue skies, warm, probably too warm for a bit, but then a gentle kiss of breeze cooled us down.
6 hours of that steady diesel truck burn brought us to our first real camp of the climb at the Base of Ski Hill. We spent the next couple hours establishing a routine that will become quite familiar: building tent platforms, erecting tents, digging kitchens, bathrooms, melting water, making dinner, and finding time for self-care.
Tomorrow, we will look to move a load uphill and cache before returning to this same camp. We will all be happy for lighter loads.
Wish us bon voyage.
Best to Pete + crew…Look forward to following along…Wshing success…From flatlands of Indiana.
Posted by: Walter Glover on 5/14/2023 at 10:07 am
bon voyage~
and well done team!
Posted by: Lyds on 5/13/2023 at 5:23 pm
May 12, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
Our Denali escapade has commenced! Everyone arrived in Anchorage without incident and enjoyed a surprisingly smooth drive to Talkeetna. We spent yesterday crawling through all our gear, packing, repacking, wondering if we should bring more, less, or had forgotten something entirely and tearing it all apart to start again. Once we were sure, we weighed it all in for the planes and got sorted for the two Otters that would ferry us to base camp. We enjoyed a last dinner in Talkeetna, and some took two, three, or four showers to make up for the coming weeks and be sure to fly on smelling like roses.
We woke up this morning ready and hopeful to launch immediately, but it wasn't to be. Base camp reported that they were in a snow globe with 12 new inches overnight. We commenced the chill, sipped coffee, visited the myriad shops, ate lunch, and became somewhat convinced that we would HAVE to spend another night in a bed, have to take another shower, and have to eat a meal. Then, suddenly the RMI1 team got told to ready 5 and launched. Our hopes changed - but also Came with the realization that we would be landing quite late, and cooking dinner would be even later. So, we compromised. We would sleep on the ground and forego a shower if we could have one more mountain high pizza meal. We grabbed pizzas, trapped the stack together, and flew in with them in our lap. Our flight was stunning, with the long light of evening lighting the thousands of peaks in the Alaska range. We landed, set up our shelter, ate our pizza, and are settling in for our first night on the glacier.
We will be in touch tomorrow with more news. Stay tuned!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford, and Team
Thank you for the blog posts! We love hearing about what Bailey is experiencing. We praying for safety and an incredible experience for the whole team!
Posted by: Karlyn Sullivan on 5/14/2023 at 4:42 pm
Lap pizza is my new favorite Denali beta!! Hope it tastes even better from the glacier :D
Posted by: Corey on 5/12/2023 at 11:01 am
August 21, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Abby Westling, Ben Luedtke, Josh Geiser, Lily Emerson, Michael Murray
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb August 18 - 21 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 6:05 am. The teams enjoyed clear skies and a light breeze during their climb. They began their descent from the crater rim at 7:20 am to return to Camp Muir. At Camp Muir they will repack and take a short break before continuing the final 4,500' descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's climbing teams!
Photo credit: Ben Luedtke
August 16, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Alan Davis, Charlie Harrison
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:15 am today. Pete reported beautiful clear crisp skies, with light winds. Once the team reached the crater rim, they made their way across to Register Rock at Columbia Crest at 14,410' the highest point in Washington State. The team has started their descent and are in route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations Team!
August 11, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Alex Halliday, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Cal Seeley, Brian Walters
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'
The Four-Day climb led by Pete Van Deventer and Alex Halliday turned around at 12,300’ this morning. The teams were facing 45 mph gusts as a wet cloud cap descended on them. They reported that the weather at Camp Muir was far more favorable with a light breeze to welcome them.
The teams are on their descent back to Basecamp, with warm showers and good food in their sights.
Been following the blog all summer, making my own attempt on 8/29. Curious if that picture is from
Today and where is it on the route?
Bummer about the wind but congrats on getting that high!
Posted by: Matt Neal on 8/11/2022 at 10:53 am
August 2, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,200'
The Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons team turned at high break on their summit attempt today due to high winds. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reported steady winds of 50 MPH. The team is back at Camp Schurman, 9,440’, high camp on the Emmons Glacier where they will spend the night. The seminar team will finish their expedition skills training before descending in the morning.
Congratulations Team!
July 26, 2022
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Pete Van Deventer, Jess Wedel, Joey Manship, Cal Seeley, Mike Bennett
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Climb July 23 - 27 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Pete Van Deventer and teams reached the summit around 6:30 am under calm winds and warm temperatures. The teams will return to Camp Muir where they spend the afternoon to relax and recover after their efforts today. The teams will descend the remaining 4,500' to Paradise tomorrow morning.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Courtney & Kyle,
Congratulations! Awesome work. What are going to do tomorrow?
Posted by: Cole Fricke on 7/28/2022 at 7:34 am
Woohoo!! Congrats to Amy, Celine and the rest of the team! Enjoy the rest of your adventure!
Posted by: Mary Petersen on 7/26/2022 at 10:44 am
Grateful for these updates. Sounds like a strong group. Sending you all lots of positivity!
Posted by: Chris's mom on 5/15/2023 at 9:28 pm
Thanks for the updates. Good to know that all is well.
Posted by: Louise Kennedy on 5/15/2023 at 6:37 pm
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