Entries By mike haugen
June 29, 2017
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,000'
June 28, 2017 9:41 pm PST
Today our team practiced arguably the most important skill in all of mountaineering: patience. After a blustery, snowy night up here at
17K, the mountain finally came out this morning, but the upper reaches were cloaked in spindrift, lenticular clouds, and all the hallmarks of high wind. So, we decided to opt for a rest day at high camp to wait for the weather to clear up. The signs are looking more promising for tomorrow, and we're all hoping
Denali will give us a shot. Keep your fingers crossed for us for clear skies in the morning!
Hugs from 17,000',
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 27, 2017
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
June 26, 2017
Today was a well deserved rest day! Yesterday was quite the endeavor and I think everyone was happy to not have an alarm clock to answer to. We stayed cozied in our sleeping bags until the sun hit our tents and the warmth beckoned us out around 9:45 am. Emerging from our tents we wet straight into a leisurely Quesadilla breakfast, a special request by Pepper Dee, who turned 26 today! Later in the day we took a walk to the
Edge of the World and everyone got to strike a pose while peering out over the vast expanse of glaciers and mountain peaks. I may be bias but I think the best picture involved a blow up couch that the birthday boy had hauled up all the way from base camp! We finished the day off with a quick dinner and chat about plans for tomorrow. If the weather cooperates we will be headed to 17,000' camp in order to be in position for our summit bid! Yeehaw!
Good night from 14!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 26, 2017
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
June 25, 2017
We must be doing something right to deserve this many days in a row with good weather! The team had a great day working our way up to cache gear, food, and fuel at
17,000 ft Camp. The ridge that leads up to high camp provides some incredible climbing and amazing views. A few of our climbers commented that it was the best climbing that they have ever done. The team did so great that we earned a rest day tomorrow before we position ourselves up at high camp the day after. Superstitiously, we all agreed not to take a shower as long as this good weather holds. This shouldn't be too tough to abide by as the nearest shower is a weeks walk away!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 24, 2017
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
June 24, 2017 10:36 pm PST
And today we rested. After our big move day yesterday we felt we deserved a day of kicking back and recovering. We made a point of emerging from our tents no earlier than 10 am and got the day started out right by consuming a mountain of pancakes. Kudos to Caleb for consuming the largest pancake of the morning! By 1 pm we were wrapping up the pancake party and as you may imagine, that long of a breakfast can really take it out of you .... So we rested a bit more. Once we felt we had properly digested we reviewed fixed line travel and running belays in preparation for our carry tomorrow. After practice for a few hours it was nearly time for dinner! Funny how time flies on a rest day. We had an early dinner of gourmet Ramen and before the sun could go down on us and give way to the chill of
14 Camp we headed to bed. Tomorrow we have our first go at the fixed lines!
Goodnight from 14!
Hasta Manana
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 23, 2017
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
June 23, 2017 10:30 pm PST
Greetings from 14 Camp on
Denali!
Our team took advantage of stable weather and strong legs today to retrace our steps back up to 14,200 feet, this time with tents and sleeping bags in tow. We were excited to ascend the steeps of Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill for the last time, and lucky for us, windy corner proved not so windy after all.
The rest of the day was devoted to digging in our new camp, which is looking dialed and styled. The team is looking forward to having some time to relax and adjust to the new altitude tomorrow, with a non-zero chance of Horiskey-style blueberry pancakes.
Ciao,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 23, 2017
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
June 22, 2017
After having so much fun with our
cache mission up to 14,000 feet and back, the team decided they want to do it again tomorrow. This time we will be moving up to make a new camp at 14,200. We hope that the weather tomorrow will be as lovely as today.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 22, 2017
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
June 21, 2017
Good weather has finally hit
Denali. The pressure is rising along with the temperatures....for now. We have had a good time at our 11k camp but it time to start moving up higher. Our plan is to do a carry up to 14,000 feet to cache some gear and then move up after a couple of days. If this weather holds, we will wake up early and hit the trail so we can get up to 14k before it gets too hot. Most people would think that being to hot would not be an issue while mountain climbing in Alaska, but it can be a real energy drain when the hot sun reflects off he snow like a solar oven.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team
On The Map
June 20, 2017
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
June 19, 2017
Denali remains unseasonably cold for June. This actually works in our favor for the lower camps. The cold days allow us to wake up a little later to move camps or cache before the sun comes out and bakes us.
We successfully completed our mission for the day, which was to go back to our last camp and retrieve some food and gear that we left cached there. We couldn't have asked for better travel conditions with perfect weather and a great path stomped through the deep snow. We completed our task with enough time for second breakfast and an afternoon nap. This mountaineering stuff is rough!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 19, 2017
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
June 18, 2017
Well folks, I'm happy to report the view is indeed gorgeous! We got a little later start today due to some inclement weather, and it turned out to be the right call. Rolling out of camp at 8, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with views of
Kahiltna Dome and Mt Crosson. I'd be lying if I said it didn't make the walking a little easier! That and the fact that we opted to cache gear at our last camp and do a back carry tomorrow. So, with light loads and beautiful surroundings, we were happy to roll into Camp 3 at 11,000' and make an extra kush home for the next few days. Joe Horiskey would be proud! We're now all tucked in and prepping for another light day acclimatizing and making the trip down to 9,600' to retrieve the rest of our belongings.
Good night from Camp 3!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 18, 2017
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 9,600'
June 17, 2017
We've made it! To
Camp 2! It was early, it was snowy, and it was sloggy but we made it! We left camp at 3:45 this morning to stick with our nocturnal schedule and to avoid the post holey conditions. Lucky for us the snow had firmed up and the walking was primo. The visibility on the other hand was little to none, and our only views were those of the rope teams in front of us. We made a few discoveries along the way, for instance uphill travel is much easier without your sled break on! After a few more hours, the occasional bump in the road, and a fair amount of pressure breathing, we pulled into the white expanse of Camp 2. I wish I could tell you views were beautiful but I'll have to wait until the sun comes out! We're now all cozied up in our tents, enjoying some R&R, before a tasty meal of Horiskey Mac and Cheese!
The memories of the slow ascent of Ski Hill are already fading and we are setting our sights on moving to 11,000' tomorrow. Spirits are high and backs are strong!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guide MIke Haugen and crew
On The Map
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Excited for you Glo Roe! Can’t wait to hear all about it!
Love you!
Aunt Linda
Posted by: Linda Mills on 6/29/2017 at 9:51 pm
From the ends of the earth I call to you, I call as my heart grows faint; lead me to the rock that is higher than I.
Posted by: charles valentine on 6/29/2017 at 6:31 pm
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