Entries By leif bergstrom
July 5, 2022
Posted by: Alex Halliday, Leif Bergstrom, Daniel May, Sam Marjerison
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,200'
RMI Guide Alex Halliday called from Cmap this afternoon. The team turned at 12,200', at the top of the Ice Chute, due to deteriorating weather. He reported cloudy condition, some snow but an overall nice day of climbing. Alex mentioned that despite the team turning, that everyone was stoked after their ascent of the Ice Chute.
Their plan is to walk back to Paradise tomorrow and retun to Basecamp in the early afternoon.
June 29, 2022
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Joe Hoch, Lauren Macklin, Leif Bergstrom, Trevor Katz, George Hedreen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier & Joe Hoch led their Four Day Climb June 26 - 20 teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Dustin reported windy conditions with a lenticular cloud above them for most of the climb. However, the cloud had dissipated as they reached the crater rim and they were enjoying the sunshine as they crossing the crater to Columbia Crest. After celebrating on the summit, they will descend to Camp Muir, repack and continue down to Paradise. We look forward to meeting the teams at Rainier BaseCamp later today.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
June 23, 2022
Posted by: Matias Francis, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin, George Hedreen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 9,400'
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Matias and the Kautz seminar team will spend their last night on the mountain tonight and plan for an early departure off the mountain followed by more training at Basecamp in Ashford.
The guide team have the following to say in reflection of the last week of training:
We have spent the past 4 days and 3 nights experiencing the mountain and the heat that accompanied it this week. Our high point may have only been 9,400’ but an abundant of learning and training was accomplished.
After a scorching first day moving across the Nisqually Glacier, we decided to move to a night schedule, only climbing when the snow hadn’t been tarnished by the blistering sun. Very Denali-esque of us. We hit on rock climbing, mixed climbing, ice climbing, crevasse rescue and many other skills. Hot weather and beating sun created unstable snow conditions and difficult trail breaking. But as one participant said, “It’s not all about the summit on trips like this”, and we feel like we were able to accomplish all our training and learning goals. The wisping clouds float below us like pillows awaiting to catch us on our decent.
RMI Kautz Team,
June 1, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, June 1, 2022 - 12:52 am PT
Quick dispatch: We are homeward bound. We packed up camp at 17,000' and started down the West Buttress. We got to high five the team led by JT Schmitt as they passed us on their ascent. At 14,000, we regrouped, grabbed everything we had left, and considerably heavier, started towards 11,000' Camp. By 6 we had made it to 11,000'. The air is so much thicker! We dig up our cache from what seems like ages ago, and made a quick meal in team Champion's cook tent. We'll sleep for a few hours, then wake for an early push to the air strip. With any luck we'll be in Talkeetna mid morning tomorrow.
RMI Guide Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
Thank you, thank you for taking us on this trip with you and for your commitment and skill in guiding your team safely. We at home are grateful. Barbara
Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 6/1/2022 at 9:47 am
May 31, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 20,310'
Summit Day Recap - Monday, May 30, 2022
Things were clear and calm this morning and it looked the perfect day to go for the summit. We fired stoves early, ate breakfast as the sun rose on camp, and packed our bags. We left for the Autobahn, a long ascending traverse from 17,000' Camp to Denali pass at 18,000'. To get there, we walked back into the morning shade which kept things chilly, but overall really pleasant. From Denali Pass, we climbed past Zebra rocks, still warm and pleasant and in the sun now. As we rounded the Arch Deacons Tower, the wind caught us. Probably 15-20 mph, but biting. We covered our faces and continued on. We were able to get a bit of respite from it on the Football Field, and up Pig Hill. The summit ridge had plumes streaming over it and it was touch and go whether we would be able to traverse the last piece of terrain. We tried and the initial piece was windy, but we were able to move through it and as we crossed over the ridge we got some protection. We summitted at 5:15pm, tagged the top and took a couple hasty photos, before heading back down.
Tomorrow we will pack camp and start moving towards the air strip. We'll stop to sleep for a few hours at 11,000' or the base of Ski Hill and then be in Base camp to hopefully catch rides back to civilization the following morning.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
Congrats to all !!
Carl, maybe Aconcagua next?
Posted by: Ron Jackson on 6/2/2022 at 3:30 pm
Congratulations to Matt and the rest of the team!
Posted by: Tucker M on 6/1/2022 at 7:00 am
May 30, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,000'
Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 10:27 pm PT
Unlike two days ago, when we woke up there wasn't a hint of wind in sight. We had word from Mike Walter's team that the weather at 17,000' was perfect to, so we launched out of 14,000' Camp in high spirits. It was one of the most pleasant days I can remember on the West Buttress. Temps were comfortable, no wind, and the views unparalleled. It's also some of the most fun climbing. We were at camp by early afternoon, set up tents, fired an early dinner, and congratulated Mike's team as they came back from the summit. Things look really good for us tomorrow, so fingers crossed, we'll make our push in the morning.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
C’mon team! Can’t wait to read the post about the summit! Wishing you good weather and strength. Molta força!
Posted by: Anna P on 5/31/2022 at 5:43 am
Congratulations on getting to 17k! I’m so excited for your hopeful push tomorrow. We’re all pulling for you, sending you positive thoughts and intentions. Keep reaching towards your goals, be safe, be amazing!
Posted by: Patrick Schmitz on 5/30/2022 at 8:19 pm
May 29, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
May 28 10:29pm PT
It was a perfect day to rest and regroup from our foray yesterday. The sun was out, temps were warm, and everything was calm. We also got a forecast that looks really promising for the next several days. We took another trip to the edge of the world - last time heat induced clouds were rising up from the glaciers below and it felt like the edge of the world, past which there was nothing, just a white void. Today we could see who down the Kahiltna and get a sense for the sheer scale of it all.
We are headed towards bed pretty hopeful that we are waking to similar weather tomorrow and good conditions to move up.
May 28, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday May 27, 2022 10:41pm PT
We had a forecast that was promising. It would be blowing up high in the morning but would diminish and that Saturday looked like a promising summit day. So we woke early, and saw what we expected - winds blasting up high but otherwise clear and blue. We are a quick breakfast, broke camp, and were walking before most other teams. As we climbed a huge plunge of snow left 17 and jetted far into the atmosphere. We were glancing at it wondering how quickly the winds really would die. We were sheltered from it and moved from cold in the shade to very warm in the sun as we climbed the fixed lines. As we needed the top, a full roar made itself heard - wind in the other side of the ridge. We stepped around and into it - maybe 15 mph, not enough to knock you around but COLD. It was going to be a full-fledged fight to keep faces unfrozen, so we made the quick decision to turn back and head for 14 Camp. There it was calm and warm.
Tomorrow looks nice and well regroup and rest from today. We have some hope that Sunday into the beginning of the week will give us a shot.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and Team
We’re keeping track of all of you every day. What an amazing experience, just seeing the beauty of your pictures and reading how aware and skillful you have to be with Nature especially the great Denali. I hope you are learning a bit more about yourselves, too. Much love and prayers for your
safety and well being. Barbara/Mom
Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/29/2022 at 6:55 pm
Go team! Thanks for sharing your daily updates. I hope the weather calms down so that you can proceed. For the football fans amongst you, Real Madrid won the Champion’s league final yesterday against Liverpool, thanks to their amazing goalkeeper Courtois. Weather is amazing in Barcelona (this is for Albert).
Posted by: Imma on 5/28/2022 at 10:56 pm
May 27, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:53 pm PST
As we suspected, it was blowing snow off the ridges above us this morning. There isn't much snow available to move, so when you see snow plumes you know the wind is ripping. It sounds like the pattern will change tomorrow so we weren't too bothered. We put some energy into organizing for our move to 17,000', took naps, and didn't mind staring up at the snow plumes above with like minded guides and climbers. Pretty standard activities whe you are at 14,000' Camp.
We'll wake up and hope Denali welcomes us higher tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and Team
May 26, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, May 25, 2022 - 10:13 pm PT
As the forecast promised, we watched evidence of wind evolve above us across the Alaska range today, but our home at 14,000' Camp was calm, warm, and quite pleasant. We made the most of it, repairing gear that's malfunctioned, visiting with friends across camp, and napping. Tomorrow is most likely more of the same, so we'll spend time organizing so that when the weather switch flips, we're ready. Yesterday as we headed up, another team that was taking a rest break told us that we "were a Porsche 911 turbo engine". We'll hope to fire that up on Friday.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
Lia & Chris: Congratulations on making the climb. Can’t wait to hear from both you about the adventure! Very proud of both of you
Posted by: Marcella and Bill on 7/6/2022 at 7:34 am
To the most badass climbers Lia and Chris, we are so proud of you! At 12200 ft, we’re sure there was plenty cu-see cu-see cu-see. Can’t wait to hear all about your incredible adventure
Posted by: Ana & Yukichi on 7/5/2022 at 11:34 pm
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