Entries By james bealer

Denali Expedition: Frank and Team Cache Gear at 9,800’

May 22, 2021

Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali

Elevation: 7,800'

Friday, May 21, 2021 - 11:28 pm PT

This morning we woke up to fresh snow as we began preparations for our carry to the 9800 cache. Our duffels and backpacks were able to easily swallow our gear as we only had to carry a load of about 50% of the weight from the previous day. The team ascended, cached everything and then descended in stellar form, ate a nourishing meal and went to bed with full stomachs and tired legs.

RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Just found your trip and will be following! I climbed this route in 1996 with RMI / Robert Link and you are brining back some powerful memories. One day, one camp, one step, one cut block at a time. You’ll get there!

Posted by: Keith on 5/23/2021 at 8:50 pm

Looks great! Keep it up!

Posted by: Thomas Brown on 5/22/2021 at 6:52 pm

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Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Ascend to Camp 1 at 7,800ft

May 21, 2021

Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney

Categories:

Elevation: 7,800'

Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 10:36 pm PT

Sometimes it’s not so fun to be right. Turns out we were right about the incoming snow storm. We moved to Camp 1 at 7,800' today through continuous snowy weather. The guide team safely navigated us across the Kahiltna, while Eric proved he was a talented linguist by regaling us with stories during our breaks. Tomorrow we hope to cache food and extra equipment above Ski Hill and then return to our camp.

RMI Guides Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go Heidi!!! We are following along as well! :)

Carol & Huay

Posted by: Huay on 5/22/2021 at 6:00 pm

Elliot
Loving the updates. Stay strong and tap into your tenacious spirit. Our best to you and your fellow travelers.
Love
Mom and Daf

Posted by: Susan and Bert Campos on 5/22/2021 at 9:57 am

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Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Ready in Talkeetna, Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

May 20, 2021

Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 7,300'

Wednesday, May 19, 2021 - 11:20 pm PT

Blue skies greeted us this morning in Talkeetna. With potentially stormy weather approaching, we decided to make an expeditious attempt to fly onto the glacier this evening. We lucked out and got a flight and landed at Base Camp. Now the adventure begins! Tomorrow we plan to move to Camp 1 at 7,800 feet.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Elliot
Loving the updates, thinking good thoughts for you and the rest of your team. Enjoy the adventure, stay strong and tap into your tenacious spirit to keep moving.
Cheers and Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: Susan Campos on 5/21/2021 at 7:09 pm

Go Auntie Heidi!!!
From Wilson

We hope you make it safely, watch out for spider badgers!!! (8-legged badger) ((Breckin made it up and tries to convince people it’s a real thing))
From Breckin

Posted by: Jason Kay on 5/21/2021 at 4:55 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Turns Due to Conditions

May 9, 2021

Posted by: Mike King, James Bealer, Henry Coppolillo, Alan Davis, Chase Halbert, Matias Francis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,600'

RMI Guides Mike King and Alan Davis led their Four Day Climb teams to 11,600' today before being turned back by new snow and poor conditions. RMI Guide Alan Davis reported drifting snow up to 2 feet in places. The teams departed from Camp Muir around 8 am and will conclude their program at Rainier BaseCamp today.

North Cascades: Expedition Skills Seminar - Shuksan

September 14, 2019

Posted by: Steve Gately, Nikki Champion, James Bealer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Shuksan Team has spent the last week in the North Cascades with one day spent on Mt. Erie learning basic rock climbing. And the remainder of the week on Mt. Shuksan to complete alpine mountaineering skills training. These techniques include anchor placements, various self and team crevasse rescue techniques, steep technical ice climbing, belays, rappelling, knots, route finding and fixed rope travel. The team then attempted the summit of Mt. Shuksan, but were forced to turn at the base of the summit pyramid due to poor rainy weather. The team is breaking camp and will be hiking to the trail head this afternoon. Congratulations to the Team on a great week of climbing!

Mt. Rainier: Eric Frank & Four Day Climb Reach Summit

July 7, 2019

Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, David Price

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Climb July 4 - 7 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 7 AM today. RMI Guide Eric Frank reported a beautiful day with clear and sunny skies above 8,000'. Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yeah booooooiiiiiiiii! Get it!

Posted by: Nicole Hertel on 7/7/2019 at 10:51 am

I’m so proud of you guys! Way to go!!

Posted by: Melinda Lohre on 7/7/2019 at 8:35 am

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Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Descend to Kahiltna Base Camp, Fly to Talkeetna

June 2, 2019

Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 348'

Well folks, a lot has happened over the last 48 hours and I'm sorry to have been keeping you waiting. June 1, we woke up to somewhat clearing skies at 14,000' Camp and decided to pack up and get as far downhill as we could. Aside from an interesting GPS guided tour through an area known as the "Polo Field" the weather held out and we made it all the way back to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier where we began our trip. We arrived just before midnight and quickly set up our tents, had a quick dinner and went to sleep with dreams of flying out the next morning. Well those dreams came true. This morning we woke to the sound of camp bustling with life when clear skies and the sound of basecamp manager Lisa's voice booming through the early morning with warnings that we should start getting ready to fly off. A few hours later we were in the sky heading towards Talkeetna. The trip has finally come to an end. It's been a fantastic three weeks here in the great Alaska Range and its bittersweet to see it end. We'll meet up for one last team dinner tonight before going our separate ways tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for following along. It's been a wild ride! RMI Guide Steve Gately

Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Holding Tight at 14K for the Night

May 31, 2019

Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,200'

Friday, May 31, 2019 4:36 PM PT With the forecast still calling for heavy snow we have opted to stay in the confines of our camp here a 14K. The team enjoyed a late morning breakfast and is now napping away the afternoon. Sunday is still looking like our first possible day to fly off the glacier with the weather only improving into Monday and Tuesday. The plan as of now will still be to launch downhill around midday tomorrow and travel all the way to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna hopefully chasing improving weather down glacier and ultimately a flight out of here early Sunday morning. We'll see what hand we are dealt with tomorrow. The hope here is to avoid having to travel and set up camp in bad weather but rather time it just right that we walk straight into a plane. For the time being however, we rest and wait for our opportunity. RMI Guide Steve Gately

Denali Expedition: Gately and Team are back at 14,000’ Camp

May 31, 2019

Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, May 31, 2019 12:11 AM PT The team is know all safely back down at 14 camp and tucked in for the evening. Summit day was a long hard fought battle but everyone did fantastic. The morning of our summit attempt we woke up in early in an attempt to beat the crowds up our first obstacle, the "auto bahn". This section often takes a couple hours to complete without a break and is steep and exposed. The exposure of this terrain requires us to use a form of running protection that protects the team against a fall but is quite time consuming. The end of this hurdle puts you at Denali Pass and our first rays of welcome sunshine. From here steep rolling glacier takes us up and around a swirled white and black rock feature known as "zebra rocks". At the top of this feature we were faced with a gentle but cold 15 mph wind. The terrain mellows out quite a bit as we meander through open glacier past a prominent rock point known "arch deacons tower" and into the football field, a flat depression just before our final slope to the summit ridge. Once on the summit ridge a short but dramatic climb brings us to the summit. The team took a few moments to take pictures and celebrate the ascent before our attention was turned toward getting back home. All in all the trip took us 13 hours round trip, all at elevations above 17,000 ft. With the summit behind us we turn our focus now to trying to truly get back home. Cloudy and snowy weather are abundant in the extended forecast which means chances of flying off anytime soon are nil. Tomorrow we'll check the weather in the morning and make decision to further descend, or to keep the luxury of our fortified camp here at 14, or opt for better weather. That's all for now, it's late again as I'm writing this and I'm in need of some serious rest! Thanks for following along everyone! RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team

Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Back to High Camp after Summit

May 30, 2019

Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 17,200'

Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 12:56 AM PT The team is all safely back at High Camp now. It was a long day for everyone and it's past midnight now and were finally killing the stoves for the evening. I'll try and put together a better picture of summit day tomorrow for everyone. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Steve Gately

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats all and safe return!

Posted by: Darren Beck on 5/31/2019 at 6:02 am

Nice one Raj and team! Couldn’t have a better leader than Mr Gately himself!!!!!

Well done all. Bravo

Posted by: John Horgan on 5/30/2019 at 8:57 am

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Entries By james bealer

Denali Expedition: Frank and Team Cache Gear at 9,800’

Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Ascend to Camp 1 at 7,800ft

Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Ready in Talkeetna, Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Turns Due to Conditions

North Cascades: Expedition Skills Seminar - Shuksan

Mt. Rainier: Eric Frank & Four Day Climb Reach Summit

Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Descend to Kahiltna Base Camp, Fly to Talkeetna

Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Holding Tight at 14K for the Night

Denali Expedition: Gately and Team are back at 14,000’ Camp

Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Back to High Camp after Summit

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Entries By james bealer

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