Tuesday, June 11, 2013
All these early mornings are sure getting us dialed on working in the cold and will surely pay off up high. Today we led the way out of 11,000 ft camp by a few hours and reaped the reward of hitting the sun at a not-so Windy Corner and putting in our cache at 13,500 ft in still, warm weather. The team did a great job and collectively we avoided baking in the afternoon sun. Now back at camp, the team is relaxing and recovering so that if Mother Nature allows, we can bump camps to 14,000' tomorrow. All we can do now is rest up and hope that Windy Corner lets us through one more time.
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard
Thinking of Galen and the rest of the team and hoping that Windy Corner is not too windy for your ascent, and that the weather lets you enjoy the mountain at each step along the way. Stay strong and safe. Kathleen and Bill, Arlington, VA
Posted by: Kathleen and Bill on 6/12/2013 at 6:59 pm
James and Others:
It sounds like “Miss McKinley” is making sure you appreciate what you have courageous chosen to pursue (and in due time achieve). Knowing you ... you are enjoying the challenge even more ... while becoming even more aware of your unique adventurous drive, persistence, and stamina! Please help each other stay patient, optimistic and (most importantly) safe. Best of success as you all continue to ascent!
Fred
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/12/2013 at 12:23 pm
Monday, June 10, 2013
It did snow a little bit last night and the cold wind this morning made a camp day a welcome change of pace for this team. We are climbing very well so far, and I'm sure everyone would've done just fine continuing higher this morning. Patience on the big mountain is key, and the recovery day will only make us stronger for the future as we acclimatize and settle in to camp life.
After a big breakfast we reviewed some cramponing techniques and ice axe usage. After our mid-morning relaxation session we are going to have a potluck lunch and move to a little rope work and cache digging before dinner. Tomorrow if the weather is workable we will carry towards 14,000' Camp and get a little taste of some real altitude. Everyone sends their best to family and friends back home.
Over and out,
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Sunday, June 9, 2013
Tonight we will sleep well after three big days on the lower Kahiltna. We arrived to 11,000' camp in the early warmth of a new day and made camp easily. A strong performance by the team gives us great confidence in our abilities the higher we move and with a full day of rest tomorrow, we should only grow stronger.
The rest day won't be entirely lounging about. We are going to review some tricks of the trade for motion on the upper mountain and ready loads for our carry towards our 14,000' Camp.
So with a light snow falling onto our tents and the sound of other teams passing through camp, we say goodnight to our friends and family.
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard
Saturday, June 8, 2013
Waking early this morning we shouldered out packs and made a bid to move some supplies higher on the mountain. Mild but cold enough temps kept the walking comfortable and we were able to cache at 11,000' camp before the sun came out in force. The team did great, and we made it back to our camp at the base of Ski Hill before the heat really turned on.
Now we are hiding in whatever shade we can find before an early dinner and bed. If the weather holds or at least remains workable, we will fire for 11 Camp in the wee hours tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
Wow! The team is making great progress!
I love seeing pictures of the group!
We’re all rooting for you!
-S Brownie
P.S. All of the LA Rock Climbers say hello and send their best!
Posted by: S Brownie on 6/9/2013 at 9:56 pm
Great job guys good luck and always thinking of you all. Kalispell Montana
Friday, June 7, 2013
Happy 100 Year Anniversary of the first ascent of Denali to all our friends in the lowlands! We celebrated the occasion by leaving Basecamp for our first camp at the base of Ski Hill. On our way we ran into RMI Team 3 with Brent, Leah and Logan, fresh (generous term) from the summit. A big congratulations for a job well done.
We travelled early this morning, making use of the cooler temps to stay on the surface of the snow instead of post holing our way into utter frustration. Our way to camp was smooth and we can only hope the melting snow doesn't disappear too fast so that we can make our way out of here in a few weeks. I'm sure it will work out just fine.
We plan on calling it early tonight and carrying higher early tomorrow morning while it's still cold and then we can soak up the heat in the afternoon. The team is off to a great start, climbing strong and happy to be on the mountain.
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
Thursday, June 6, 2013
Greetings from the Kahiltna Glacier! Our team flew from Talkeetna onto the mountain this morning and we've been busy setting up shop, pitching tents and dialing in camp. Our sleds are ready and it's an "early to bed, early to rise" type of morning in our future, provided the weather stays workable. Tomorrow we ride for the base of Ski Hill and start climbing.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
All reports sound good for the recent summits. Safe journey to all of you as you begin the climb. Our prayer flags are hung in the backyard for your summit and return. xoox, Bonny
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Hello,
This is the RMI Mt. McKinley June 4th Expedition. The whole team is here in Talkeetna, Alaska, packed and ready to rock. Today we packed up, checked our gear and sat in on a National Park Service orientation to preview a bit of the upcoming adventure. The team is excited and ready to launch. So far the flying weather hasn't let many folks land these days, but it appears to be stabilizing just in time for us to storm the SE fork of the Kahiltna. With any luck we'll fly out tomorrow morning, so we better get some rest tonight.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
At 7:57 a.m. RMI Guides JJ Justman and Jake Beren were standing on Columbia Crest, the highest point on Mt. Rainier, enjoying the views. There was a gentle 5 mph breeze on the “prettiest day in May that [JJ and Jake] have ever seen.”
The teams began their descent about 8:30 and we look forward to seeing them at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
Congratulations Summit Climbers!
Thanks to my guide JJ and all the world class guides at RMI, you made the climb an amazing experience! You guys are the best!! Will be back for more .. :)
Posted by: Bo on 5/22/2013 at 11:27 am
Congratulations to Taylor, Callie, Jake, Mark, David, Bo and Andy for a strong climb to the summit!
It's quite a bit different than my last climb three days ago. Instead of bitter cold walking up to Camp Muir it was scorching hot!!
The team did great and we are rehydrating and getting ready for our summit bid. Stay tuned and see how well our climb goes!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Greetings from Quito!
Early this morning (or rather late last night), our team set off to try to climb Cotopaxi. When we woke there was a little precip, but we knew we could handle it and continued with our preparations to go see what we could do. Breaking trail through the new snow for hours this morning did little to slow down this team and we found ourselves high on the mountain before the sun had risen. At around 18,400 feet above the sea, crossing a reactive windslab above a gaping crevasse stopped us in our tracks, too risky to chance a crossing and our high point today. The team impressed me with their dedication to safety and a good time in the mountains over standing on a summit and Cotopaxi rewarded our judgment with a break in the storm to take in the sights of this beautiful mountain. Crossing crevasses, down climbing ice steps and navigating seracs in the early morning light was a real treat and we appreciated these features of the route even more as the weather rolled in for our last few moments before returning to the hut. A short nap and then down to the bus in the snow, so much for life in the tropics. It has been a real treat to share these climbs with such a good team, thanks everybody.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Thinking of Galen and the rest of the team and hoping that Windy Corner is not too windy for your ascent, and that the weather lets you enjoy the mountain at each step along the way. Stay strong and safe. Kathleen and Bill, Arlington, VA
Posted by: Kathleen and Bill on 6/12/2013 at 6:59 pm
James and Others:
It sounds like “Miss McKinley” is making sure you appreciate what you have courageous chosen to pursue (and in due time achieve). Knowing you ... you are enjoying the challenge even more ... while becoming even more aware of your unique adventurous drive, persistence, and stamina! Please help each other stay patient, optimistic and (most importantly) safe. Best of success as you all continue to ascent!
Fred
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/12/2013 at 12:23 pm
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