Entries By billy haas
November 29, 2014
Posted by: Steve Gately, Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer, Billy Haas, Caleb Ladue
Categories: Guide News Guide Grant
In late October, RMI guides Pete Van Deventer, Caleb Ladue, Billy Haas, Steve Gately and myself took part in a Rock Guide Course conducted by the American Mountain Guides Association. The course was contracted and sponsored by the RMI Expeditions/First Ascent Guide Grant, and the instructors included former RMI Guide Jeff Ward, RMI and Colorado Mountain School Guide Mike Soucy and CMS Guide Mark Hammond.
As a guide staff, we felt very fortunate that both RMI and the AMGA instructors were able to plan the course during a timeframe that allowed us to work a full summer schedule on Rainier and still have a few weeks to prepare and train in the rock realm after a long season of alpine climbing in the Cascades. After completing my Ski Exam and becoming a Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide in April of this last year, I am personally very grateful to RMI for sponsoring the course, which allowed me to complete a second financially committing segment of my
continuing education and progression toward full IFMGA certification.
The 10-day course took place at Smith Rock State Park near Bend, OR. Over the years I have spent a fair bit of time climbing at Smith and I knew the venue would provide some unique challenges from both a climbing and guiding perspective. While Smith is known for it’s high quality sport climbing, on this course we would be dialing our focus more towards traditional climbing. Lucky for us, many of the ‘trad’ routes at Smith are notorious for having less than stellar rock quality, adding another complex element to the guiding objective.
The course kicked off on the last week of October. The weather looked to be good for the first couple of days, so we postponed the ground-work until a later date, and got right into the climbing. For me, the learning process brought me right back to my apprenticeship days at RMI, when I had to change the filter on my perspective. I quickly learned to transition my thinking from that of an advanced recreational climber to approaching a climbing objective from the viewpoint of a guide. It’s a subtle change, but it makes a huge difference in your mindset, risk management, and the decision making process.
The instructor team did a great job of leading by example. They started right off with a very professional and competent course opening discussion and several demonstrations on belaying and anchoring techniques, as well as various ways to increase both guide and client security. As outdoor professionals, we don’t sit still well or for very long, and so were very thankful when we even got to climb a few pitches at the end of the first day!
The fair weather held on into our second day, but as the forecast looked to be deteriorating later in the week, the instructors opted to keep us in the field climbing in the event that we got shut down by rain and wind over the following days. This strategy worked quite well, as we were able to practice more of the techniques and rope trickery we learned the previous day while spending time off the ground in the vertical orientation.
By nature, guides tend to be kinesthetic learners, and as a group we all commented on the fact that we were able to process and retain the information with higher success if we could get our hands on the rope.
After the first few days, the course continued to ramped up both physically and mentally. For me it just got better as it went on, and the final day was by far the best, culminating in a lead of the aesthetic final pitch of Zebra Zion.
I can’t say enough about the both the quality and caliber of the AMGA instructors, and I’d like to especially thank my co-workers for a great time and creating an environment that was positive and fun, all while staying engaged and eager to learn every day.
Finally, a big thank you RMI, for investing in your guides and organizing this opportunity to allow us to further our professional education!
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Seth Waterfall has been guiding trips for RMI for over a decade, and leads trips to destinations the world round. He lives in Enumclaw, WA, were he spends his spare time skiing, road biking, and climbing throughout the Cascades.
July 25, 2014
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Leon Davis, Bridget Belliveau, Caleb Ladue, Billy Haas
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guides Billy Nugent and Leon Davis reached the Summit of Camp Muir today. The teams reported great climbing conditions and clear skies.
Congratulations to Today's Teams!
June 27, 2014
Posted by: Win Whittaker, Mike Uchal, Kel Rossiter, Leah Fisher, Billy Haas
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by Win Whittaker and Kel Rossiter climbed to Ingraham Flats this morning (11,200'), but due to snow, high winds, and poor visibility they were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier. The entire team is safely back at Camp Muir and will be starting their descent back to RMI BaseCamp shortly.
Congratulations to today's Team!
John and Beth - you two are rock stars in my book! Congratulations on giving it your best shot!!!
Posted by: Jlo on 6/27/2014 at 11:51 am
Chris/Brooke, still a kick butt accomplishment!!! Can’t wait to see the pictures!
Love, Leonard
Posted by: Leonard on 6/27/2014 at 10:52 am
Congrats Steve and Danny. Hope it was as great as you thought it would be.
Posted by: Don on 7/25/2014 at 3:16 pm
YEAH STEVE!!!! Congrats man!!!!
Posted by: David D on 7/25/2014 at 2:08 pm
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