Entries By ben liken
June 26, 2016 - 9:54 pm PT
Hello,
Today we woke to our clearest morning yet, with stunning views down the Kahiltna Glacier and onward into the Talkeetna Valley. With a hot coffee and granola breakfast in our bellies, we were ready to turn the corner at
Kahiltna Pass and head higher on the mountain. The entire team rocked the four-hour journey to 11,000-foot camp even with the continued burden of big sleds and packs.
After our tents were pitched we settled in for an afternoon siesta as the sun blazed above. By the time dinner was served things had changed as the clouds had built up around us and it was starting to snow. Now as we head to bed it seems to be coming down at a rate of 2ish inches per hour!
The plan for tomorrow is to break up the loads and carry some supplies and food to 14k. This will give us a taste of the crisp thin air of the high Alaska Range and help us in our acclimatization process.
We'll let you know how it goes!
RMI Guide Ben Liken
On The Map
June 25, 2016 - 9:14 pm PT
Checking the weather at 3:30 this morning revealed a slightly gloomy world of clouds. It had snowed, but just a little, and it was calm. So we fired the stoves and rallied the team. While we ate breakfast and got ready to travel, about 50 climbers from at least a half dozen teams trudged by on the final day of their expeditions. More or less happily heading for the exits. We recognized and shouted greetings to many of the guides. They'd all tagged the top in the last couple of days after waiting out prolonged storms.
Our team packed up and got on the track as if they'd been climbing for weeks. We were moving by 6:15 AM with the sky clearing and trail conditions far better than they'd been the day before. On the compacted and frozen surface our sleds were a lot easier to pull. We charged up
"Ski Hill" and after a couple of rest breaks and some tough uphill sections we pulled in to the plateau at 9,300 ft and dug a new camp in the snow. By noon, most of the team were headed into their new homes to nap and get out of the intense sunshine. We passed a lazy and quiet afternoon without much more sign of other teams. We've already got the place to ourselves, it seems.
We'll get up early again and see if we can get up to 11,000 ft tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 24, 2016 - 10:24 pm PT
It began raining at Kahiltna Basecamp around 9PM, and that transitioned to wet snow at about 2 AM. So we didn't go for that Alpine Start we were angling toward. It was still snowing at 7:30 AM when we got up to build breakfast but then it quit and things began to improve. We'd begun to think we'd be stuck in BC for a storm day, but with clearing weather and the knowledge that the glacier was in exceptionally good condition for late June, we decided to make use of the day. As always, it took a while breaking camp and gearing up for this first push. It was awkward rigging sleds into rope travel and it was awkward for some to be on snowshoes with heavy packs. We got out of BC by 10:45 and by then the sky was mostly blue and the sun was mostly hot. After the rain, the surface was a little slushy but not all that bad for travel. We moved down the SE Fork and took a right turn at the main
Kahiltna Glacier. We had things pretty much to ourselves with only the occasional one or two European climbers at a time coming past on their way out. We made steady progress, but we weren't moving fast with the slushy conditions. We decided to quit after six hours of work, which had brought us to just about 45 minutes below the more common camp at 7800. We are out under West Kahiltna Peak. All day as we traveled, we could hear avalanches thundering down the mountainsides, and from time to time we'd look hard enough to find the clouds of ice billowing out from the snowy torrents.
We had a secure camp up by 6 and dinner by 7 PM so that all could get enough rest for another big day tomorrow. Hopefully on a frozen surface with cooler conditions.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 23, 2016 - 9:39 P.M. PDT
First day in our new home...The Alaska Range. We enjoyed a final night in Talkeetna and another great breakfast at the Roadhouse, but then we hustled out to the airstrip. There was no "hurry up and wait" today, more like just plain hurry up. The weather was good and the pilots were ready to go. Stan and Randy each piloted a big and beautiful Otter on skis into the
Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and spit us and our gear out onto the snow...all before 10 A.M. We spent a calm day building camp and reviewing glacier travel techniques. We'd take breaks from time to time to sip water and stare at the giant mountain walls surrounding us. Cloud cover moved in to obscure those walls by our early bedtime. Our intention is to be up at midnight for an alpine start. During the flight in, we could see that the rumors have been spot on. The lower glacier is in excellent condition with very few open crevasses. Even so, we'll go at it early when the surface has the best chance for being frozen solid.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 22, 2016 - 12:17 a.m. P.D.T.
The final RMI Expeditions
Denali trip of 2016 is kicking off. The team assembled in Anchorage today, with a few reunions and a few introductions, and made the traditional pilgrimage to Talkeetna. Bill, our Denali Overland driver, got the van out of the Anchorage rush hour traffic and out onto the open road with big views of the Chugach foothills and the Talkeetna Mountains. After a last stop for provisions in Wasilla, we cruised on up to epic views of the Alaska Range itself just before pulling into Talkeetna. We settled our climbing gear at the airplane hangar and checked in to the venerable Talkeetna Motel. Some of the team ventured out to sample local beer and appetizers, some went straight to the mattresses after long days of prep and travel. We'll dial down on pre-climb details tomorrow morning...Tonight it was unwind and get settled in the land of the midnight sun.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 16, 2016
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides
Dave Hahn and
Ben Liken led their teams to the
Mt. Rainier summit! After some light now and 5 mph winds for the ascent, the weather has improved to blue skies and no wind as they topped out. At 9:30 a.m. the teams began their descent back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's summit teams!
June 9, 2016
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,500'
The
Four Day Summit Climb teams led by
RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Ben Liken made their summit attempt this morning but turned back after reaching 12,500' due to increased winds and cold temperatures. The teams have returned to Camp Muir were they will have a short break before continuing to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Good work teams!
June 5, 2016
Posted by: Leon Davis, Ben Liken
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,410'
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides
Leon Davis and
Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported clear skies, a light breeze and comfortable climbing conditions.The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's teams!
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Ben Liken led the
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reached the crater shortly before 8:00 a.m. Elias reported beautiful weather, a cloud deck at 7,500', chilly temperatures, and a light breeze. The team will spend a little time on the summit before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. The Seminar will spend tonight at Camp Muir and descend back to Ashford tomorrow.
Congratulations to this week's seminar team!
May 15, 2016
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Ben Liken
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by
RMI Guides Tyler Jones and Ben Liken reached the top of
Disappointment Cleaver before winds and weather forced them to turn. Tyler reported several inches of fresh snow on the upper mountain. The team is back at Camp Muir and will be starting their descent to Paradise shortly.
Congratulations to today's Team!
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Michael Waters, your family is with you in spirit every step of the way. Stay safe and good luck. We know you will make it! We look forward eagerly to the daily blog of the progress of you and the team from Dave. Hugs, Nan
Posted by: Lynn Shannon on 6/27/2016 at 8:57 pm
Heritage Place is cheering and praying for you all and especially our Kathleen:)
Posted by: Heritage Place on 6/27/2016 at 6:17 pm
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