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Entries By alan davis


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Waiting Anxiously to Fly

Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 11:37 am PT

We woke up early this morning to try to get the first flight slot out this morning, and optimistically we got our boots on and loaded up the planes. Unfortunately, as things often happen in Alaska, we got turned around just as we were entering the Alaska Range due to low visibility. We are now back in Talkeetna anxiously awaiting our next opportunity to fly. Stay tuned.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt

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Steve and Alan (and everyone else), here’s to some bluebirds in your immediate future.  Hope you’re enjoying your hangar hangout time!

Posted by: John Schampel on 6/4/2021 at 7:00 pm

Jack and Nick, no matter what, you look cool!

Posted by: Barb and John The Parents on 6/4/2021 at 3:06 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climbs Turned Due to Wind Slabs

The Four Day Climb May 27 - 30 led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Alan Davis reported pockets of wind slabs on the steeper portions of the route which forced the teams to turn around at 12,800’.  They enjoyed a spectacular sunrise with great views as they descended to Camp Muir.

 

Photo: Andy Bond

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Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Teams Ascend to Ingraham Flats, Turn Due to weather

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 16 - 21, 2021 met on Sunday for their first day of training led by RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Nikki Champion.  On Monday, May 17th they loaded their packs and ascended to Camp Muir.  They have spent the last four days and nights at Camp Muir, training and practicing skills needed to climb big mountains.  Today they put that training to test and made their summit attempt on Mt. Rainier.  Unfortunately wind and new snow thwarted their effort.  The team is safely back at Camp Muir and will do some additional training this morning before packing their gear and descending from 10,000'.  We hope they learned a lot and enjoyed their experience even with the uncooperative weather.

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Mt. Baker: Summit & Ski Team Reaches Summit

The RMI Mt. Baker Summit & Ski May 14 - 16 team led by RMI Guides JM Gorum and Alan Davis, reached the summit of Mt. Baker around 10:30 am this morning.  The team climbed well and was spending a bit of time on the summit.  Once things soften up a bit they will be making turns all the way backt to camp!

Congratulations to today's Mt. Baker climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Turns Due to Conditions

RMI Guides Mike King and Alan Davis led their Four Day Climb teams to 11,600' today before being turned back by new snow and poor conditions.  RMI Guide Alan Davis reported drifting snow up to 2 feet in places.  The teams departed from Camp Muir around 8 am and will conclude their program at Rainier BaseCamp today.

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Remember the great Ed Viesters

‘Getting up is optional…..getting down is MANDATORY’

Peace and mahalo

@tgsaet

Posted by: Scottie on 5/25/2021 at 12:11 am


Mexico Volcanoes: Davis & Team Summit Orizaba!

Despite going to bed socked in at 14,000ft, we woke to clear skies and put on our boots in the early, cold and dark hours just after midnight. Fortunately for us, the freeze line was low the night prior, so we walked into snow just out of Piedra Grande up into the the rocky maze known as the  Labyrinth portion of the route. This made the approach to the glacier much easier than the usual condition or ball-bearing like rocks. At the toe of the glacier we were greeted with howling winds out of the west.  Based off of the plums of snow rocketing off the upper mountain, any snow that had fallen the day before was surely sublimating in the atmosphere. Nonetheless we pushed upward, armed with our crampons, ice axes, and goggles.

After a few more hours of getting blasted by the veracious winds, the team dug deep and hit the summit crater just before 8:00 am.

The team made light work of the descent and got back to high camp in good style. We quickly loaded camp into the 4X4s and hit the dusty road back to Tlachichuca where we were greeted by the friendly staff at the Reyes’ climbers hostel. We enjoyed our final delicious Mexican dinner together and toasted to stories and laughs over well deserved beverages. Tomorrow we will head back to Mexico City, homebound with new friends and memories to share!

RMI Guide Alan Davis

 

On The Map

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Mexico Volcanoes: Davis and Team arrive at Piedra Grande

Today we left the manicured streets of Puebla for the road to the Piedra Grande (Orizaba high camp). After a quick stop in Tlachichuca to do the duffel shuffle and get yet another tasty lunch, we downed our climbing clothes and loaded the 4x4s. The trail to high camp took two hours up a very primitive wash. We were greeted with hail and much cloud cover on the giant of a mountain that laid in front of us.

Nonetheless, spirits remained high as we did a little skills practice before the fiesta consisting of pollo, frijoles, rice, veggies, and of course, guacamole! Hope that the forecast will hold true and we will get clearing in the night before we dawn patrol our way up the mighty Pico de Orizaba! 

RMI Guide Alan Davis & Team

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Mexico Volcanoes: Davis & Team Enjoy Their Rest Day in Puebla

Today we practiced the art of chill and sought a much needed day of R&R at lower elevation in the lively, colonial city of Puebla. From visits to the pyramid in Choulula, to various mole covered samples, and viewing historic buildings, our goals were fulfilled. Tomorrow, we head to our final objective of the trip, Pico de Orizaba (18,491’). The weather is looking a bit wet in the morning, however improving through into tomorrow evening. According to our local staff and some weather models, we may even be lucky enough for some fresh snow on the upper portion of the route. But for now, we will worry about enjoying some creature comforts throughout our final evening in this quaint and polished hamlet that is Puebla!

RMI Guide Alan Davis

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Hi Alan and Tom, say hello to my ghost in the Piedra Grande hut, rest well and then slay that dragon! Get properly hammered after in Tlachichuca. Repeat in Ciadad de Mexico. Best of luck!

Posted by: Pieter Swart on 1/24/2020 at 3:42 pm


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Davis and Team Reach the summit of Ixtaccihuatl

We fired stoves to a clear and crisp morning at 15,000’. As we took our final sips of instant coffee and Nescafé we gleamed with anticipation for the day ahead....
The team reached the summit of Ixta at 0630 and styled the climb in just over four hours. After enjoying a brilliant sunrise on an nearly windless morning, we made our way back down where we were met by Rogelio with delicious avocado sandwiches and cold beverages. I don’t think many of us stayed awake on the bus ride to the beautiful hamlet of Puebla this evening, but we arrived a couple hours ago and spirits were high to say the least. We were greeted by the wonderful staff at the Colonial Hotel where much desired hot showers, food, and well deserved rest awaited us. Looking forward to the next 24 hours in this alluring city of fine cuisine and architecture!

RMI Guide Alan Davis

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Congrats to you all. Great to see the photo of the team on the summit of Ixta. 
All the best for the Pico de Orizaba summit attempt on Saturday.
Stay warm, stay strong, stay safe and enjoy.
Thinking of you all

Posted by: Jacquie on 1/23/2020 at 9:36 pm


Mexico Volcanoes: Davis & Team Move to Ixta High Camp

After a delicious breakfast prepared by our local staff, we left the Altzomoni Camp for thinner air. With Popocatepetl fuming at our backs, we were graced with no precipitation and some cloud coverage to keep the intense sun off of our backs.
The team arrived to 15,500’ at Campo Alto in good time where we spent the remaining afternoon hours resting in and acclimatizing. We had a humble dinner consisting of noodles and delectable quesadillas from Oaxan cheeses. Settling in early to prepare for our summit bid of Ixta in the cold morning hours to come...

RMI Guide Alan Davis

On The Map

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