Entries By alan davis
July 9, 2022
Posted by: Alan Davis, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 10,000'
Hello from Huaraz!
After a few years of hiatus due to the pandemic, we were welcomed back graciously into the beautiful country of Peru. It was such a treat to again be able to enjoy the bustling coastal grandeur of Lima while sampling delicious ceviche and other fine Peruvian cuisine last night after some long flights. We began our eight-hour bus ride to the climbing and trekking hamlet of Huaraz promptly this morning after breakfast and were greeted by the always friendly staff at the Andino Club Hotel. A true climbers hotel with some Swiss roots. It was so great to catch up with our local partner and IFMGA guide Peter as well as some of the other support staff with whom we hadn't seen in a few years. Tired from multiple days of travel via busses and planes we quickly enjoyed dinner and got settled into our rooms for a full nights rest where we will begin acclimatizing by sleeping at 10,000'.
Buenas Noches!
RMI Guides Alan Davis, Emma Lyddan and Team
On Friday, We left the warmth and creature comforts of Puebla at 8am and drove two hours to the little town of Tlachichuca where we met up with the Servimont crew at the climbers hostel, quickly packed, ate, and hoped in the back of 4x4 vehicles to make the long and slow crawl up the primitive trails to Piedre Grande, or Orizaba High Camp just around 14,000'. We were able to set up a good camp despite intermittent sleet and moderate winds with gusts of 25-30mph. Our cook Rudolpho treated us to some warm quesadillas and fajita fixings. Hydrated and bellies full we gott horizontal and to try to rest before our long summit bid early in the morning.
We awoke to a brisk, partially cloudy night with some early morning sleet and fired stoves at 11pm. After a good Alpine mocha made from instant coffee and hot cocoa, we booted up and left our camp at Piedra Grande walking up through a snow covered rocky approach to the aptly named “Labrynth” of large boulders and glacial erratics left behind some millennia prior. As we stepped onto the Jampa Glacier, we were met with a fiercely cold and sustained wind out of the southwest, gusting at 35mph. The light recent snow made for good walking on the otherwise icy steeps that are common to the upper Jampa route. After many long and hard hours, with only intermittent morning sunshine, the entire team reached the summit of Orizaba just before 0900. With their hearts full and bodies tired, the team returned back to our climbers hostel in Tlachichuca and were greeted by the friendly staff of Dr. Reyes with hot showers, a warm meal, and well deserved cold beverages. An early night was in order for our long day of travels home with stories and laughter to share with loved ones and friends.
Signing out!
After a much need night of sleep in sheets and a good shower, we woke to the sultry sounds of automobiles, street vendors, university students, and music in the colorful city of Puebla. It always feels like going back in time walking up to buildings and streets built by skilled hands several millennia ago. We grubbed on a good breakfast of mole poblano and cafe con leche, then dispersed to make the most of our day out of synthetic apparel and climbing boots and proudly donned our flip flops with cotton. Some of us toured a world renown ceramic factory while others wandered the bright Zocola after getting a massage to work out the kinks from the previous climb. As usual the colonial hamlet of Puebla did not disappoint, and we found ourselves basking in the glow of a rest day earned.
RMI Guide Alan Davis
Wednesday, January 19, 2022 - 9:09 pm PT
The team reached the summit of Ixta at 0800 this morning with mostly clear and cold conditions and little to no wind. Recent snowfall from the night prior made for good travel and the route in overall good condition. Alas, we were met with more afternoon clouds and made a muddy dash back on the lower melted trails, beating the precip to our bus escape to Puebla. Will check in tomorrow!
Yesterday, we woke at 7am just before our welcomed friend, the sun, hit our trailhead camp. After finishing the last of our packing that was put on hold from the thunder and hail the previous night, we had a warm breakfast and donned our climbing packs for the first time on the trip. Conditions were mostly snowy and cloudy on the trail to Campo Alto, but the team managed to make good time nonetheless. In 4.5 hours we arrived, ready to set up tents before the afternoon hail storm set in. Taking shelter to cook in the Refugio, we had the camp to ourselves and enjoyed warm ramen and quesadillas. The team then got their climbing kits ready and took to the tents early to maximize rest for the upcoming summit push tomorrow.
A good thunder storm and the rain hitting the rooftop of our cold, but dry cabana made for a very restful night of sleep. After breakfast at the IMSS training compound of La Malintzi, we got back on our bus to make our way to the La Joya Trailhead. On the way we stopped in the markets of Amecameca to purchase our water, fresh tortillas, queso, and last minute snacks for our Ixta climb tomorrow. Once we entered the gates of the National park, we were greeted with hail, thunder, and snow for the remainder of our journey to the trailhead camp. Spirits were kept high though, as we were served another warm and delicious meal by the local staff. After our final packing for tomorrow's move up to Campo Alto. We were lucky enough to see both Ixta and the smoke off of Popocatepetl in the clear evening light after the thunderstorm passed. We are excited to begin our first objective bright and early after a good nights sleep at our trailhead basecamp.
Sunday, January 16, 2022
After a quick breakfast in the Hotel Geneve, we said goodbye to the bustling streets of La Zona Rosa at 07:40 to get some much needed time to acclimatize in preparation for the objectives that lie ahead. We were greeted with sunny skies and mild morning weather on our hike of La Malinche which tops out at 14,640. The trail was in good shape and feral dogs were good company at times. After moving into our Cabana and just missing the evening thunder and rain, we are on our way to enjoy an nice family-style meal of carne asada, complimented with hot sizzling veggies and queso to end a great first day.
The pictures are amazing. What an incredible experience. Stay safe!
Posted by: Tracie Bush on 1/17/2022 at 12:41 pm
July 28, 2021
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Alan Davis, David Price, Axel Ryd
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
The Mt. Baker Easton Glacier crew for July 26 - 29 reached the summit this morning led by RMI Guides Nikki Champion and Alan Davis. The team gathered at the trail head on Monday and spent the last few days on the mountain learning glacier travel skills. Today they put their training to work and were rewarded with 100% of the team reaching the top. They will spend tonight back at camp and walk out to the trail head tomorrow, concluding their program.
Nice work team!
July 22, 2021
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Alan Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Alan Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7 am today. Alan reported light winds, clear skies. It took the team just under 6 hours to top out via the current route up Disappointment Cleaver. The team is en route back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
Any summit of Rainier is extremely memorable and spectacular in beauty! Clear weather surely makes it nice. Congrats to all!
Posted by: Bill Bussey on 7/23/2021 at 8:40 am
Awesome! Attempting the same next week. Hope it goes as well!!!
Posted by: Patrick Barrett on 7/22/2021 at 9:48 pm
July 17, 2021
Posted by: Alan Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The first Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise of 2021 led by RMI Guide Alan Davis finished up their week of expedition skills training with a summit of Mt. Rainier via the Disappointment Cleaver route! The team has spent the last five days on Mt. Rainier's Paradise Glacier learning and practicing the skills needed to prepare for future mountain adventures. Today is their sixth and final day on the mountain and we are excited to hear about their week when they return to Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations team!
How exciting for the team. Journeys of a lifetime, infinite memories. Thanks for sharing with us.
Posted by: Terri L. Jennings on 1/24/2022 at 6:45 am
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