It is 11 PM at the Dik Dik Hotel near Arusha, Tanzania, and the entire climbing team has made it through the worldwide obstacle course of airports and aircraft to begin a Kilimanjaro expedition. We'll get started in the morning with strategizing and packing gear and prepping, but for now it it just a great relief to have everybody in one place (the correct place) and to have all the baggage safely off the carousels.
Our drivers and hotel staff gave each tired traveler a friendly hello, a handshake, a glass of champagne and a flower or two. The kitchen stayed up late to get an excellent dinner out to each and every climber.
We'll hope that a night's good rest goes a long way to refreshing, rebooting and rejuvenating the gang. An adventure is waiting.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Four Day Summit Climb Led by RMI Guide Dave Hahn reached 11,800’ feet today before encountering firm and icy conditions on the route which forced them to turn around. Dave Hahn reported clear skies and beautiful weather. The team is currently descending from Ingraham Flats and will be back at RMI Basecamp in the early afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Great job Nathaniel and Matthew - darn weather, atleast the weather let you go further this time than you did last time! Glad you could enjoy the adventure together! I love you both!!!
Posted by: Mama J on 8/31/2013 at 12:08 pm
Dear Jeff and Catherine et al,
We’re so sorry that inclement weather thwarted your ascent up Ranier!Glad that you’re encountering sunny skies on your descent. Our prayers for you and your team continue!
Love you both!!
Dad and Momma et al
Posted by: JimandDiana Smith on 8/31/2013 at 8:35 am
Our Four Day Summit Climb teams failed to reach the summit this morning due to a team member falling ill and needing assistance. The teams reached 12,300’, the top of Disappointment Cleaver, before they needed to turn around. Everyone is now descending back to Camp Muir and we expect their arrival at Ashford Base Camp around 4:00pm.
We had teams summit via three different routes on Mt. Rainier this morning: Dave Hahn and Jason Thompson led teams via the Disappointment Cleaver Route, Pete Van Deventer via the Kautz Glacier Route, and Garrett Stevens on the Emmons Glacier Route. They reported chilly conditions, winds about 15 mph and sunny skies. All teams had left the crater rim by 7:50 a.m.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Way to go Ben and Kara! Summited on Claire’s Birthday.
Posted by: Dad, Connie and Claire on 8/8/2013 at 6:20 pm
So happy for you Kara, Ben and Jeff! You’ve worked so hard for this… I am so proud!! Come home safely, I can’t wait to hear about everything. I love you!!
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Dave Hahn was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. At 7:20 a.m. the team was descending Disappointment Cleaver en route to Camp Muir; they will be back in Ashford later today.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Bottle neck of climbers above the DC caused a major hours long delay. Unfortunately temps were warming up quickly and there was still a lot of mountain to climb.
Posted by: JC on 7/29/2013 at 6:23 pm
Too bad. Would like to know what prevented the team from summiting.
Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 7/29/2013 at 10:15 am
The alarm was set for 11:30 PM at 8000 ft on the Kahiltna Glacier. The rain began at 10:00 PM and continued on and off until 11:20. Rain wouldn't be considered a good thing if you were laying in your sleeping bag hoping that the glacial surface would freeze up in the night to permit safe and easy passage to the Southeast Fork and a possible airplane pickup. So at the appointed wakeup time, we had a soggy glacier, groggy climbers and a murky vision of the world. Although it is still light for twenty four hours in this part of Alaska in mid-July, it isn't very light between about midnight and four. But we made the decision, along with Rob Gowler's AMS group camped nearby, to make a break for the airstrip before the storm got worse. We were on the move by 2:00 AM and stumbling along on snowshoes in the gloom. Surprisingly, it rained no more. It was slow going at first, hitting big crevasses broadside, without being able to see them ahead of time and take evasive action. But conditions improved as we got further down glacier... there had been a great deal of new snow (bridging crevasses) the sky overhead was clearing and the snow surface was consequently freezing, and it was getting lighter. It was a great help to be backed up in route-finding by Rob and the AMS team. Together, as the last climbers on the mountain, we worked through the early morning hours. By seven, we'd solved all significant problems and found ourselves at the foot of "heartbreak hill". We climbed the Southeast Fork to the airstrip and called in the ski-planes. Conditions overhead were good, but it took a few hours until our planes could even get into the range. The bigger storm was still coming in, but all passes into the mountains were already clogged with cloud. We considered ourselves lucky to be flown out in the afternoon. What followed was a whirlwind of drying/sorting gear, connecting with the outer world again and showers and shaves. We enjoyed a fabulous West Rib victory dinner celebration, a summit certificate awards ceremony and copious amounts of laughter over our shared experiences of the past three weeks. Day 20... Trip done... all we could possibly have hoped for in defining a fine expedition.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
A HUGE thank you to Dave and the rest of the guides for escorting Anders and the rest of the team up and down this formidable mountain. We appreciated all the updates, and can’t wait to hear all the details when Anders gets home. You certainly faced some challenging weather, and your perseverance and patience paid off in the incredible summit experience. We all appreciate it!
Posted by: the christofferson family on 7/17/2013 at 4:24 pm
Monday, July 15th, 2013
It was still very calm at 14K camp this morning, but it was obvious that the next storm system was moving in. So we moved out. At 9:15 we pulled out of Genet Basin and dragged our sleds to Windy Corner. The going was easy as others had plowed a nice trough through the recent snows. There has to be some advantage to being the very last team to come off the mountain. We made it around the corner, down the Polo Field, across Squirrel Hill and down Motorcycle in about two hours. At 11,000' we dug up our cache of food, snowshoes, and miscellaneous gear and took about an hour to reorganize. Then it was down to the main Kahiltna Glacier in excellent condition for travel. It only took us two hours to make the bottom of Ski Hill. By that point, however, glacier surface conditions were getting soggy and slushy -as expected. So we built camp to wait for the cool of night before going the last few miles to the airstrip. We need the freeze to firm up about a thousand snow bridges over crevasses between here and Basecamp. It is a relief to be low again. Our first time in over two weeks to be taking in so much oxygen with each breath. And we aren't even remotely cold after conditioning to the frigid heights of Denali. There is a downside, of course... there are smells again. The one in the guide tent has been described as "hot garbage."
Perhaps we will make it to Talkeetna and showers tomorrow morning.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Sunday, July 14th, 2013
Back at 14K. A couple of long, hard, exhilarating days have come and gone. When we left 14,200' two days ago, we were happy to even have a chance at getting to 17,200'. It wasn't certain that we'd get there with the leftovers from that two-foot snowstorm. And as we moved up, we were aware that teams were coming down from 17,200' because of avalanche conditions between there and the summit. But we had a perfect day for moving up and we weren't used to perfect days on this trip... we took advantage. The going was a little slow, what with trail-breaking, but it was better than we expected to find. We were able to walk on avalanche debris for a good portion of the approach to the fixed ropes. The climb up along the crest of the buttress was spectacular and difficult with our big packs, but all handled it well. It took 8.5 hours to reach camp at 17,200'. When we got there we were overwhelmed at the generosity of the teams who'd been waiting there for days. They gave us water and helped to build our tents... And most importantly, they pointed out that recent winds had virtually eliminated the avalanche hazard on the route to Denali Pass. They were going for the top in the morning and we were invited. It was just a matter of whether we could get camp up, dinner down, and people in sleeping bags fast enough that the team would be rested for a try on the top. The next day dawned cloudless and windless and our teams were all enthusiastic about a chance to climb. We took off at 10:20 AM just behind Rob Galler with AMS and Dennis with AAI. We'd discussed things extensively and were determined that the last guided parties of the season would work together to achieve this unexpected summit. Rob did a lot of the hard work breaking trail on the steep slopes to Denali Pass. We took over a little past the Football Field to make a route up to and along the summit ridge. Throughout the day, it seemed nearly unbelievable that on a storm-plagued trip, we'd get such a perfect opportunity for the top. The wind never blew and we were comfortable the entire day... no freezing hands, faces or feet. We hit the summit at 6:40 PM and stayed there for an hour, taking pictures, shaking hands and marveling at our good fortune. A few thousand careful steps later, we pulled into high camp at 11:30 PM.
Everyone worked to get some dinner down before turning in. The guides were up for hours more, melting snow and filling water bottles. It seemed a great gift that the good weather continued into this morning. It is always rough packing up at 17K after a summit day, but it was made immeasurably easier by the calm, sunny morning. We set out at 1:00 PM and climbed ever so carefully down the narrow ridge crest and the steep fixed ropes with our giant packs. It was quite hot by the time we reached 14,200' and it seemed a good idea to set camp rather than chancing rockfall around Windy Corner. Tomorrow will be another big day as we'll try to make it to 8000', putting ourselves in position to go out the lower glacier early the following morning. Probably too much to ask, to get another nice day, but we'll ask anyway.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Awesome adventure Super Dave, thank you so much for taking my brother to the top. I can’t even begin to imagine how outstanding the view was from atop Denali, with still winds and clear skies, oh my! Dave, please tell my brother he now qualifies as a Sourdough, no more Cheechako.
Posted by: Johnny Stevens on 7/15/2013 at 1:41 pm
Scott,
Congratulations to you and the rest of your team for a succcessful and hard earned summit climb. Sounds like the weather conditions were perfect and the views from the the highest peak in North America were spectacular. Hope you took a lot of pictures. Best wishes for a safe descent and look forward to seeing you and hearing some interesting stories about the climb.
Saturday, July 13th, 2013 2:30 am PST
Hey this is Dave Hahn with RMI's Denali team, the last one of the season. I'm on the summit of Denali, 20,320', on one of the more magical days that I can remember up here in 30 expeditions. It's really worked out great. We teamed up with some of our good friends from Alaska Mountaineering School and Alpine Ascents International. Great to be up here with good climbers and, like I say, just the most spectacular day. We stepped onto the top at 6:40 PM, and we'll stay up here for a while. It's very comfortable. There is maybe a one and a half mile an hour breeze and massive sun. Clouds are probably about 10,000' feet under us. We will get back to you when we get back to camp. We wanted to let you know that we got extremely lucky. Bye now.
Sunday, July 14th, 2013 8:00 pm PST
This is Dave Hahn calling from High Camp. We got back from the summit, no problem. We spent about an hour up there, altogether. I figure it took us about 13 hours and 15 minutes round trip. We left at 10:20 this morning and we got back about 11:35 this evening. Can't do a written dispatch; it's 1:30 now. After doing dinner and filling everybody's water bottles and all the normal chores for getting us in the bed. But we'll catch you up on the story in the next few days. The long days continue. This one was spotless weather but very long day. Tomorrow promises to be one as well going down the month. We'll catch up, and let you know how things are going. Thanks.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Congratulations on an amazing summit day! We are thrilled for you that the weather was clear and you were able to enjoy what must be the most spectacular views in the world! We are so impressed by the whole team. Anders, your whole family and tons of friends send their love. And kudos to the rest of you, especially Anders’ young tent mate Max—pretty impressive feat at your young age!
Posted by: judy and randy on 7/15/2013 at 4:39 am
woohooo! congratulations on your summit of such a worthy mountain. looking forward to pics and the story.
Hey, this is Dave Hahn calling from 17,200 feet on Mount McKinley. We made it to High Camp. Huge day, beautiful day, great weather. One of the nice things that started off the day for us was we got to talk to Mike King. He and Will and Shawn had made it to Basecamp by this morning and they were looking to get picked up within a half an hour of our conversation. They reported good conditions down there and they had a smooth exit from the mountain. We were very happy to hear that. And a big happy birthday to Mike King and a thank you for all that hard work. We set in with our hard work right after that. It did take a long time to get up here to 17,200' because we had so much snow on the Headwall.
If tomorrow is a decent day, we're going try for the summit. And that's it for tonight. Talk to you soon.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from 17,200 ft on McKinley.
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Thanks for taking such good care of everyone. :)
Posted by: Mara on 9/15/2013 at 4:31 pm
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