Entries By Dave Hahn
June 19, 2017 9:06 pm PST
Conditions were perfect at 1 AM for beginning an early morning transit of the
Kahiltna Glacier. Skies were clear and the snow surface was beginning to freeze good and hard -just the way we like it for traveling crevassed terrain with heavy packs and sleds. We got stoves going and began to dress for success. The team set out at precisely 4AM and marched down the SE Fork of the Kahiltna to its junction with the main glacier -we banged a right turn and started our climb. The glacier didn't have much good snow from the winter, so plenty of crevasses were exposed and needed crossing, but with the good freeze, the crossings were easy and uneventful. We saw ample evidence of climbers having come through in soggy, hot and heavy conditions, poking legs and bodies into the dark cold depths of the glacier. We took hourly rest breaks and accomplished our move in just under five hours total, pulling into 7800 ft just before 9. Then in calm sunshine, we set to work building camp. T
Tents went up and once all work was finished, we dove in for naps, escaping the ridiculously intense midday sun. By early evening it was tolerable outside once again and we met for dinner under the shelter of our dining tent. Forecasts for the day had called pretty definitively for new falling snow, but our reality was a pleasant summer day. We'll gladly take another day of this "storm".
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 18, 2017
It was overcast and gray in Talkeetna this morning when the team got in for a 7AM breakfast, but we were optimistic in any case. Things had brightened just a bit by the time we assembled in the K2 hangar, but the word was passed that fog on the glacier surface would keep planes out of
Basecamp initially. We drank coffee and fidgeted with our gear for a bit. Then we loaded the planes. Then we fidgeted a bit more. Then it was time to fly and we got our boots on. We hastily texted friends and loved ones as our two big beautiful De Havilland Otters taxied out to the runway. We were off! But then the fog came back over Basecamp and we did a u turn and landed in Talkeetna. We texted, we drank more coffee and then we loaded up for real. The flight in got markedly more dramatic and spectacular as we entered the Alaska Range. Before we knew it, we were setting down perfectly on skis on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. There were about a hundred climbers assembled, ready to fly home and so it was a busy scene. We were very pleased to shake hands and give hugs to the two RMI teams finishing their adventures with Jake Beren and Tyler Jones. Then we set to building camp and reviewing safety procedures for travel on the lower glaciers. We'd stop every now and then to stare in wide eyed wonder at massive Mt Foraker and vertical Mt Hunter, towering over us. Dinner, some story telling and some packing completed our big day. We turned in at 8 PM with the sun nowhere remotely even close to the horizon. We'll get up early -weather permitting- and make our move in the cool of morning when the glacier surface is firmer and safer.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Yesterday we converged at baggage carousel #1 in the Anchorage airport... having come from far and wide to form our
Denali climbing team. A commute with Denali Overland and our driver Bill brought us into Talkeetna, Alaska by 9 PM. Today we got down to brass tacks and started preparing seriously to go on the mountain. It wasn't all drudgery as our first official team meeting was conducted over a fine Roadhouse breakfast with plenty of good hot coffee. Introductions were completed in time for our mandatory National Park Service Orientation Slideshow at the Talkeetna Ranger Station. We were reminded that it had been a tough season for weather on Denali, with only 30% of climbers making the summit so far. Indeed, we'd begun the day walking the streets in steady rain. By midday when we headed for the K2 Aviation hangar, things were beginning to look up. We conducted a thorough check of each climbers gear and clothing as big stretches of blue sky too over. We kept looking toward the Range as we went through sorting tents and ropes and food for the group, but the big peaks stayed well-disguised in the murk and cloud. By early evening the loads were in order and weighed for hefting into airplanes. The work done, we headed back into downtown Talkeetna for dinner at the bustling Twister Creek. It is high season for tourism in Alaska. We all relaxed a little and made final preparations for "getting on" in the morning. Getting on a plane, getting on a glacier, and getting on a climb.
With a little more improvement in the weather, we'll be on our way.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by Dave Hahn reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Dave reported clear sunny skies above 7000' with winds of about 15 mph from the North. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
The
Four Day Summit Climb June 4-7 led by
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and the
Five Day Summit Climb led by
Pepper Dee were unable to reach the summit today due to high winds and deteriorating weather. Both teams ascended to 13,500' this morning but were forced to turn around due to weather. The teams will return to Camp Muir to re-pack and take a short rest before descending to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 21 - 26, 2017 led by
RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Steve Gately have spent the week training at Camp Muir. Today they made an alpine start for their summit attempt. The team reached the summit around 8 am and was able to enjoy the views. Dave Hahn reported a light cloud cap on the summit and otherwise good conditions. The team will return to Camp Muir today for their final night on the mountain. They will complete their program tomorrow and wrap up with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's team!
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 14-19, 2017 led by
RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Chase Nelson spent the week at Camp Muir. The team spent time learning mountaineering skills, knot tying and crevasse rescue. The team experienced windy and snowy conditions for a portion of the week but were rewarded today with beautiful blue sky. They reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 7:30 and spent an hour enjoying the views and celebrating their accomplishment. Today is the last day of the program so once they return to Camp Muir they will pack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
None of us minded getting up early today at
Union Glacier. We packed our bags and knocked down our tents one more time. Then we drank a bunch of coffee and waited for the big plane to come in. We had a ringside seat for the 11 AM landing out at the Ice runway. It didn't take long for the ground crews to get it unloaded and to get us on board. We were off deck by noon and had a smooth and easy 4.5 hour ride back to Punta Arenas.  Then it was time for showers and a fine dinner out with friends. We celebrated a truly enjoyable climb in an extraordinary environment. Tomorrow we'll fly some more and we'll eventually go in different directions. But we won't soon forget what we accomplished together.
Thanks for following.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
There was optimistic talk yesterday evening of a flight to South America today. The weather didn't cooperate, but we certainly didn't mind another day in the heart of Antarctica. We ate well, we rested, we rode fat tire bikes on a 10k groomed trail, we watched clouds come and go, and we mingled with other "tourists" and staff of ALE (our logistical company). Everybody wanted to know about our big storm and just how hard the wind really blew.
Union Glacier camp feels like a major city compared to our small camps on Vinson. Ski planes come and go at all hours, snow cats and snowmobiles roam about, folks come and go from skiing and climbing, from excursions to the coast and the pole. It is a bustling crossroads in the middle of a beautiful nowhere. It is hard to interact with so many well-traveled people without hatching plans for the future. Our immediate future involves northward travel and word has it that the IL76 will be in tomorrow morning. We could be in South America tomorrow evening. One day at a time though.
Best Regards,
Dave Hahn
We started the day -as usual- in a cold cloud at high camp. We are finishing it in bright sunshine and relative warmth at Union Glacier. It was a hard day of down climbing with heavy packs, but by late afternoon we were in
Vinson Base where a plane was waiting just for us. Our tents are up in a flat place tonight and the team is happily chatting with explorers, adventurers, scientists, guides, pilots and hard workers from around the world -all mixed in the comfortable ALE dining tent.Â
Chances are good that we'll fly to Punta Arenas tomorrow.Â
More as time allows.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Good weather and safe travels!!!
Posted by: Christina perez on 6/19/2017 at 9:45 pm
Hi Hans, Anja, all climbers and guides,
I try to send you sunny weather from Germany!!!
Good luck and full energy for all members…
Ute
Posted by: Ute Novak on 6/19/2017 at 11:18 am
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