RMI Expeditions Blog
May 23, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Sunday, May 22, 2022 - 11:33 pm PT
After a solid bit of work yesterday, and due to the team going the extra mile on the carry day and going all the way to 14,000' Camp, today was a full blown rest day. We waited for the sun to hit the tents, brewed up coffee and made brunch burritos, and spent the day enjoying the fine weather. We spent a bit of time this evening refreshing our fixed line skills to prep for an initial trip up the headwall. That might be tomorrow, or we might wait, weather depending.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and team
May 23, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Sunday, May 22, 2022 - 10:15 pm PT
Back carry day.
Today was a little more relaxed than the last few, although we still got up early to beat the heat. We walked downhill to retrieve our gear from our cache, with commanding views of Foraker and Crosson. We were back at 11,000ft Camp by 11 in the morning and spent the rest of the day eating pancakes and reviewing mountaineering skills.
Weather permitting we hope to cache as close to 14,000' camp as we can tomorrow!
Thanks for following along.
RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team
Woop woop! Awesome work everyone and lots of love to Sam and Clare!
Posted by: Caleb Huntington on 5/23/2022 at 1:39 pm
Amazing photos. And glad for the sunshine and great progress. Houstons are glued to the blog!
Posted by: AMY HOUSTON on 5/23/2022 at 9:38 am
May 22, 2022
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Sunday May 22, 2022 – 3:21pm PT
We're enjoying another rest day in Genet Basin at 14,200'. The weather is pretty agreeable down here: light cloud cover and calm wind. Lenticular cloud caps have formed over Denali and Foraker, indicating higher winds aloft.
Our team is in a good position, rested, acclimated, and with a cache established up high. Now we're on standby for a favorable weather window to allow us to move to high camp and have a shot at the summit. The forecast is not terrible, but there are a series of disorganized low-pressure systems moving in from the NW. We're optimistic that there will be a break between systems and well get some good climbing weather.
Until then, we're comfortably enjoying the views, the rest, the snacking, and the comradery. We'll keep you posted on our status as we monitor the weather trends and receive forecast updates. We'll be in touch again tomorrow.
Hope the weather clears and wishing everyone the best. Godspeed for a safe ascent to the peak. I know Mr. Corona has several great stories to keep moral high :)
Posted by: Carlos Coro on 5/23/2022 at 12:26 pm
May 22, 2022
Posted by: Mike King, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
Avalanche concerns kept our Four-Day teams, led by Mike King and Grayson Swingle, from leaving Camp Muir yesterday. With the recent spring storms comes lots of fresh snow and greater risk for slides.
Despite the loaded snowpack, teams enjoyed a beautiful, clear day for their breakfast and descent back to Rainier Basecamp yesterday afternoon.
Saturday, May 21, 2022 - 11:02 pm PT
Things were perfect to move to 14,000' Camp today when we woke up, except that all of camp had the same idea too, and were up early as well. We decided it would make a lot of sense to enjoy a good smoked salmon breakfast and let the unbroken line of climbers that stretched from the top of Motorcycle Hill work things out. A few hours later, we were packed, no teams in sight, and we rolled out of camp heading uphill. A high, thin cloud layer and light breeze kept us happily cool through breezy turn. As we came out the other side though, the wind died and it got HOT! We climbed the last bit of elevation and happily arrived at 14,000' Camp. We dug in a nice camp for the next several days next to the first RMI team and gathered for dinner and cherry cheesecake before the chill of our new, higher home drove us to our sleeping bags. Tomorrow is a rest day. We're psyched.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
May 22, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Saturday, May 21, 2022 - 9:49 pm PT
Today we poked our heads out of our bags just as the sun was doing the same above the eastern horizon. Believe it or not it can be incredibly hot on Denali, and today was one of those days.
We got out and up to 11,000' Camp in great form, just as the inferno hit. We set up camp while the glaciers around us reflected the long wave radiation, making it feel as if we were in a microwave. But regardless we got camp set up and got some time to relax.
It’s been a grueling few days and now we get to enjoy the relative comfort of 11,000' Camp.
That’s all for now.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team
May 21, 2022
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
May 21 - 10:36am
Yesterday we woke up to blue skies and no wind, perfect for our carry to high camp. After a quick breakfast we roped up and headed out of camp. We ascended the fixed lines in the sun and traversed the stunning West Buttress in incredible weather. Arriving at 17,000 feet in high spirits we cached our gear for a summit push and descended the way we came. After an 11-hour day we enjoyed a well-deserved meal of Mac and cheese with bacon and tucked ourselves into our sleeping bags to rest. Today, we will continue resting at 14k camp with warm weather, enjoying listening to Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me over brunch and coffee!
Brad Enjoy the climb, your getting near the top, be smart and safe. Love Mom and Dad
Posted by: Larry Shears on 5/22/2022 at 5:03 pm
Armchair traveling this ascent with you all! I can’t imagine what it must feel like to be so close! Keep hydrating, MAK!
Posted by: Jenn on 5/22/2022 at 11:42 am
May 21, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 20 - 11:42pm
We made full value out of our rest day today. We woke late, had a brunch of blueberry pancakes and maple syrup, lounged for the better part of the day, and capped it with burritos for dinner. We have had no problem eating well.
Our main entertainment has been a very large team made up of members of the British military. We are all on a similar schedule, and subsets of their team have been filtering into camp the last couple days. As of today, our camp is encircled on three sides. The main constant in the wide variety of British accents constantly around us is the abundance of the F bomb. That word cuts through all accents and after our informal survey today shows up on average as every third word. There has been general hilarity listening to their banter through our tent walls and it was a main topic of discussion over dinner tonight.
We plan to move up to 14 tomorrow. Rested and refreshed after today, it should be done enjoyable climbing.
If anyone sees the “BRIT” soldiers can you tell a certain ADAM OCONNOR that his mum and dad are rooting for him and the rest of the group that fingers crossed they get to the top…
Posted by: David on 5/23/2022 at 2:21 pm
Is Roy Kent climbing with the British group? :) Hello to Chris, Steve and Stu! Good luck on the next stage! Be a goldfish!
Posted by: Kimmy Romine on 5/21/2022 at 12:03 pm
May 21, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
Friday May 20 - 10:38pm
Today we woke to another perfectly sunny windless day. The team moved strongly up to 10,000 feet where we cached gear to retrieve later.
After that we made short work of the descent, and are now back at camp 1, hoping to move up the mountain tomorrow!!
JT and the RMI team
May 20, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 12:35 am PT
Today the team woke up from a tumultuously excited slumber to bluebird skies and calm winds in Talkeetna, which apparently mirrored the conditions in the Alaska range. Due to our fastidious preparation the day before we stepped off the asphalt onto two full loaded Dehavilland Otters shortly after 830.
As the wheels left the tarmac we were treated to the most incredible flight into the Alaska Range I have ever experienced. It seemed as if we could see forever, and that’s because I’m pretty sure we could. The winds were so calm that we could fly through passes with granite and glaciers towering above the planes, seemingly no more than a wingspan away.
As the skis of the Otters came to a stop we were pleased to hear the sound of frozen crunchy snow beneath our boots. After a few hours of re packing and reviewing skills, we walked to Camp 1 under deep blue skies, wearing nothing but our sun hoodies and toothy grins.
Now we are settled into our sleeping bags, much like our camp is nestled in the immense beauty of the alaska range.
RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.
Hello Ken! What amazing scenery! Our best wishes to you and your team members for a safe and successful climb! We’ll be following your progress.
Diane and John
Posted by: Diane and John Bertosa on 5/21/2022 at 11:11 am
What beautiful pictures!! Must have been an amazing flight and glad to hear the walk to Camp 1 elicited more grins than groans (although one could not fault you for leaving those out of the blog!). Thanks so much for posting!!
Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/21/2022 at 3:41 am
Thank you so much for the beautiful photo and news. Hope the good weather holds out as well as
your bodies, minds, and spirits. Can’t wait to hear all the stories. You all are in our prayers. Mom/Barbara
Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/24/2022 at 7:41 am
Any euchre tournements up there Stu?
Posted by: Jay Kessler on 5/23/2022 at 8:41 am
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