RMI Expeditions Blog
Wednesday, May 25, 2022 - 4 pm PT
Once again I write from our comfortable camp in Genet Basin. There is not very much new to report. It is mostly sunny and calm down here. The story is different up above, where a large lenticular cloud had encapsulated the upper mountain. Our friends at High Camp have reinforced their snow walls and are hunkered in their tents. We are all hopeful for the decreased winds that are forecast for Friday afternoon. In the mountains, you are at the whim of the weather, and it is a fool's journey to act otherwise. Hopefully our patience will pay off soon with an opportunity to move higher. Until then, we're in chill mode. Reading, music, conversations, and crosswords are on the itinerary. A big breakfast scramble with plenty of coffee was a highlight this morning. It's important to savor the little things as we wait for our chance for further climbing forays.
May 25, 2022
Posted by: Alex Halliday, Ben Luedtke, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 6:36 pm PT
On Monday, we awoke to scattered clouds and cooler temps around Base Camp. As the sun rose above the clouds we left camp to refresh some of our climbing skills. After taking naps during the heat of the day we learned about knots for climbing and prepared for our attempt on Radio Tower.
The mountains are calm today. The clouds are fickle and we are now sitting back in camp surrounded by a fog that has moved up the Kahiltna Glacier. We reached the top of Radio Tower today, the small prominence that sits above camp. We were met with impressive views of the north side of Mt. Hunter and the Moonflower Buttress.
Hey Tim! It’s your grandma wishing you safe and happy travels! Love you.
Posted by: Susan Cote on 5/28/2022 at 10:31 am
Great to hear the update. Hopefully the weather will be perfect.
Posted by: Mary & Mike Macklin on 5/25/2022 at 5:42 pm
May 25, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 11:32 pm PT
Things were pretty perfect this morning to take a burn on the fixed lines. When we move to 17,000' Camp, it will be with just the essentials. We'll leave luxury items, switch from burritos to freeze dried meals, and go with the plan to get the job done and get back down to thicker air. Thus, there really isn't much that we can cache between here and 17,000'. Instead of caching, our goal was to climb to to higher altitude to keep the acclimatization process progressing, and to get a chance to see the fixed lines without heavy packs. Our packs were light, the sky was clear, and conditions generally calm. We had a wonderful climb up to 16,200', spent a few minutes enjoying the views, then headed back down.
The fixed lines often spark some anxiety: how hard are they, how steep, we can't stop and take a break?!? After a practice run on them those nerves were quelled. Everybody was happy to get a chance with light packs and feel ready to go again, when we move to 17,000' Camp for the summit push. Seems that there is a bit of wind up high the next couple of days so we'll likely wait that out, and then hit the go button when things calm down again. So rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and team
May 25, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 7:42 pm PT
What a day it was today! We were able to cache at 13,500 ft. The winds were calm all day, and the clouds were only below us, which created a sense of floating through the sky as we carried out gear up the mountain.
Now we are back at 11,000' Camp, all safe and sound!!
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team
Great to hear!! Sam you’re crushing it!!
Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 5/25/2022 at 8:30 pm
Great job everybody! Thinking of you every day and hoping you’re having a great climb. Love you Clare and Sam!
Posted by: Kathy Huntington on 5/25/2022 at 3:08 pm
May 24, 2022
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
We woke to a cold, clear sky this morning and fired up the stoves with hopes of climbing up to High Camp. Real time communication with friends currently at High Camp, and updated weather forecasts kept us grounded, though. The current wind and an increasingly windy trend are keeping us at our comfortable camp at 14,200' today. We continue to rest and acclimate as we await favorable weather for our foray up high. Spirits are high and we are optimistic that we will get our shot soon.
Until then, we are lounging in the sun, reading, listening to music, and hanging out--all part of the expedition experience. We will keep you updated on our status. As we patiently wait for our chance to move higher, we are happy to be in the mountains.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Been keeping up with the updates - I am excited and proud of this crew and this climb. You’ll move up the mountain soon and we are all on the edge of our seats for it!
We are cheering you all on! (Love you, Abby!)
Happy and strong climbing!
Posted by: Rae on 5/25/2022 at 6:18 am
An outstanding experience that is for sure. Hope your reasonable weather is coming soon. Stay safe and enjoy the wait. Always thinking of you
Posted by: Anne on 5/24/2022 at 8:06 pm
May 24, 2022
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Bryan Mazaika, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,000'
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and the Kautz seminar team called 11,000’ their high point. This morning, Dustin reported that high avalanche conditions would keep them from climbing. Despite the route conditions, the teams enjoyed beautiful weather on their ascent, great views of Mt. Rainier, and were able to use their time to train and learn glacier travel techniques, anchors, and more to prepare them for their next big adventure!
The team will conclude their program tomorrow with a celebration at Rainier Basecamp.
May 24, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Monday, May 24, 2022 - 10:39 pm PT
We woke up hopeful to take a jaunt up the fixed lines this morning. The sky was clear above and it was nice in camp. As we fired the stoves and the sun got nearer to rounding the ridge though, we started seeing large plumes of snow jetting of the summit plateau, then 17,000' Camp, then the whole ridge and the top of the fixed line. It was really nice in camp but we made the decision it wasn't a day to go up into the wind and pivoted instead to walking across the basin to The Edge of the World (our British friends call it The End of the World). From there the basin plummets to the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna, some 6000' feet below. We got glimpses of those views but a cliff was rising up from the Glacier obscuring the full magnitude of the place. We were back by early afternoon and took a siesta. Some built a card table out of snow blocks and played eucher until they couldn't feel their backsides. We'll look again in the morning hopeful to make the trip up the fixed lines if conditions allow.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
We really appreciate your everyday news.
Here’s some advice I got from my granddaughter as she climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro:
You climb and go for the summit for your ego.
You climb and take every step for your soul.
Much love, John and the team, Mom
Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/25/2022 at 11:12 am
Hey guys, hope everyone is doing well on the mountain. Ask Carl if he packed his magic cards. Wish you all a great weather window on your ascent to 17 camp! Best of luck to all. Ron
Posted by: Ron Jackson on 5/25/2022 at 7:41 am
May 24, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 23, 2022 - 6:10 pm PT
Today we awoke to a world of synchronized visual perception, everything was the same milky white, the sky, the ground and the thin cover of frost draped over all the man made intrusions on this arctic alpine environment. Quite a stark contrast from the last few days of around the clock blue skies.
Despite the lack of visibility we still prepared to carry our gear as if the weather wasn’t part of the equation, hoping the eternal Alaskan summer sun would penetrate the trillions of suspended water molecules, and provide us with the conditions so desired to continue the task of climbing this mountain.
Unfortunately that didn’t happen soon enough, so we decided to use our time in the next most productive way, resting. The team enjoyed letting our bodies recuperate and help red blood cell counts climb after four days of work.
Tomorrow we will see what the mountain sends our way and keep you all posted!
RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team
Enjoy the rest little gomie :) Back to work tomorrow!
Posted by: Pat Breen on 5/24/2022 at 2:38 pm
Enjoy the rest day!!
Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/24/2022 at 9:15 am
We woke early with aspirations of moving to high camp this morning, but winds from the NW ramped up and persisted a little too long for my liking and we decided to stay put for another day.
The unknown nature of mountain weather and the prospect of setting up camp at 17,200' in frigid winds was enough to make me pump the brakes. We're in a good position and patience has always proved itself prudent on Denali. Meanwhile, we continue to acclimate and get stronger in the comfort of our camp in Genet Basin.
We plan to repeat the process tomorrow morning, rising early with the plan of moving up to high camp to be in position for a summit to push. We'll let you know how it plays out.
"You don't need a weatherman to tell you which way the wind blows..."
Congrats to the entire team on your progress to date! Sending best wishes for cooperative winds and upward progress!
Posted by: Patti Duckworth Read on 5/24/2022 at 4:54 pm
Wishing you calm winds and safe and successful summit.
Posted by: Tim Burkard on 5/24/2022 at 7:35 am
May 23, 2022
Posted by: Brent Okita, James Bealer, Daniel May, Augi Fleer, Nick Sinapius, Jenna Burkey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Climb May 19 - 23 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and James Bealer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 8 am. The team reported windy conditions and don't intend to stay too long on the summit. This is the first RMI Team this season to reach the summit. The group will return to Camp Muir for a short break and to re-pack their gear. Then they will continue their descent to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Great effort. Sorry for falling over and dropping my ski pole (to be fair, I feel I corrected both in epic style…). Guides to die for.
Posted by: Simon on 5/25/2022 at 8:14 am
Fantastic! I’m on the 4 day 2nd/3rd next week. Great job!
Posted by: Anthony zuccaro on 5/23/2022 at 9:22 am
Is wonderful to see everyone is in such thoughtful and knowledgeable hands.
Posted by: Anne on 5/25/2022 at 7:23 pm
Safety is priority #1. Your wise in waiting for safe climbing conditions. Hang in there, this will happen soon.
Posted by: Larry Shears on 5/25/2022 at 7:02 pm
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