RMI Expeditions Blog

We have made our way north, through a variety of detours that have served to continue or process of acclimatization, keep us well fed and give us the opportunity to learn about the culture. Yesterday, we went for a loop hike around the beautiful Laguna Cuicocha. Over just a short distance, the fauna changes drastically as one side of the lake is far more arid than the side that sits right up against Volcan Cotacachi. It was a thoroughly enjoyable hike as we rambled through a variety of microclimates and had the chance to see condors in flight. But you know, there is always something new or interesting to see along the way. Sometimes at the end of the day it's something small, like a cheese ice cream, that stands out.

After a relaxing night at the Intiyaya residences, which in Kichwa (the native language in parts of Ecuador and slightly different than Quechua) may roughly translate to "Father Sun", we departed for the busy streets of the Otavalo market. It was a drizzly day, but Saturday is always bustling in the market. The usual bartering took place, copious espressos were consumed and then we made our way to the Yanacocha Hut, on the lower slopes of Cayambe. Everyone is tucked into bed here in the comfort of a hut we have all to ourselves. On deck for tomorrow is one last leg of travel that will take us to the main Cayambe hut (15,400') and the base of the climb.

If the weather cooperates tomorrow, then right about the time they are awarding the Super Bowl MVP we will be waking up for our alpine start on Cayambe. The climbing takes place at night here for a variety of factors, which can all be summed up by saying that the weather at night tends to be the most stable when the air is coolest. In addition to that, it is very difficult to trudge uphill during the daylight in this region as the sun's radiation is so intense, so we hope to be headed downhill by just after sunrise.

Check back on Monday afternoon to find out if the mountain allowed us passage this time around!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Today was a shorter day. We woke to the sun painting the sky pink and the wind once again turning our hair into something resembling Gene Wilder on a bad day. The views made up for it, though, and the same wind did us a favor by keeping the mosquitoes away everywhere except inside our tents. These damn things know where we sleep. 

Before hitting the trail we headed down to the beach to get another look at the glacier we had been gawking at the day before. A few splash zone experiences from the waves and a few group pics later, we were on our way. A steady climb brought us to a vantage point with two competing views: the Dickson Glacier behind us and the valley ahead that leads to tomorrow’s crux, John Garner Pass.

Tomorrow we will be up dark and early for our final day before transitioning from the O portion to the W portion of the trek. For now, we eat some cake and drink some wine to celebrate yet another birthday!! Happy Birthday, Catherine!! Wish us luck.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

PC: Dominic Cifelli

Dearest Gentle Reader,

As February marches forward on Aconcagua, many of us are left wondering: who will be this season’s diamond?

Perhaps the honor goes to our esteemed mountain guides, Duchess Wedel and the Viscount, Leandro. This author stood amazed at the rapid and seemingly flawless execution of logistics this morning, as they sorted, weighed, divvyed and divinated, all in service of our move to Camp 1. The Viscount in particular turned heads when he produced, somehow, two rounds of delicious hamburgers for dinner at 16,400 feet.

Or perhaps this season’s incomparable is Cuca and her indefatigable base camp court. The Ton left camp this morning bellies full and spirits high, in no small part thanks to their industrious efforts hosting us for five restorative days at Base Camp.

Perhaps it is not one diamond her majesty selects this season, but rather six. The whole Ton huffed and puffed for hours today, carrying loads to our newly appointed estates at Camp 1. Many a bead of sweat fell beneath an azure, cloudless sky and a relentless Sun more overbearing than the mother of any eligible lady in her debut season.

This author suspects the season’s true diamond, as in all climbing seasons, is indeed Her Majesty herself: Aconcagua! But will our climbers reach the capricious perch of her much sought after summit? Each season many claim her crown while many others return to greener pastures humbled by her many challenges.

And so the Ton proceeds to the upper mountain, in pursuit of her favour. Marching upward and onward, eager to climb ever-higher in elevation, if not in her esteem. But challenges enumerable await them as they leave behind the comforts of base camp. Will the Ton’s thus-far tireless bonhomie survive the indignities of high camp and strong winds? I suspect, dear reader, that only time will tell. 

— Yours as always, Lady Whistledown

PC: Jess Wedel

Friday, February 6, 2026

Rest days at base camp have a funny way of being both quiet and full. Today was about taking care of the little things before we head higher — the kind of things that feel oddly important when you’re about to trade comfort for commitment.

There were showers. Likely the last real ones for a while. Sun hoodies were washed — the one that will be worn for the next nine days. Morale improved accordingly.

Some of us still worked (yes, even on the side of a mountain… thank you, Starlink). We all took a slow walk out into the surrounding landscape, which looks less like Argentina and more like Mars. Red rock, wide silence, and that sense that you’re very far from anywhere else.

We were reminded that taking steps is easy, standing still is hard. Base camp life does that to you.

As the evening settled in, it was the usual mix: friends, a little wine, a lot of laughter, and a growing mental shift toward what comes next. We’re getting ready to climb.

Tomorrow, we head up.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel

P.S. Erika - we are loving the song suggestions! Today we kept it chill and the song of the day was “Against the Wind” by Bob Seger. Felt appropriate.
 

After a windy but restful night, we woke to grand views and the realization that we were truly doing the thing. We were on the trip we had imagined for so long. A delicious breakfast and a strong cup of coffee later, we were ready to hit the trail.

Today began with another traverse along the Paine River, winding through the trees while doing our best to avoid the ever-present branches aimed directly at our eyes, courtesy of that bastard walking just ahead. Eventually, an uphill stretch appeared to wake up the lungs and legs. We welcomed it, even if no one was quite ready to admit that out loud. That’s part of why we do this. Yes, the views are incredible, but earning them through effort makes them that much sweeter.

That climb marks one of the best moments of the day. Somewhere along the way, we cross an invisible threshold, leaving behind the savannah-like terrain and stepping into the Patagonia we all pictured. Sharp peaks rise above us, glaciers cascade down their flanks, and lakes glow with that unmistakable milky blue. The scene is made even better by the outstanding weather we’ve been lucky enough to enjoy so far.

Tonight, we rest at Dickson, my personal favorite camp of the trip. It sits beside a glacial lake fed by the meltwater of the Dickson Glacier. With a bit of luck tomorrow morning, everyone will get to see the glacier in its full grandeur as we walk along the lakeshore after breakfast. It should be quite the treat.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Thursday, February 5, 2926

Here we are, rest day at base camp.

This morning we lingered at breakfast, another cup of coffee, another cup of tea. We covered an impressive range of topics: public healthcare, data analysis, the influence of AI, and the origins of acetaas it relates to acetaminophen and acetazolamide (Diamox). This naturally led to the balsamic vinegar on the table and the discovery that aceta in Spanish and in pharmaceuticals means… vinegar.

From there, the conversation drifted to how we all ended up in the mountains. What they mean to us. On paper, we couldn’t be more different. But there was so much overlap in our stories, the braids of humanity connecting all these very different people trying this one very hard thing.

One hour turned into another and soon (as it always does) we found ourselves talking about the forecast. Summit chances. Strategy. The great obsession.

What we landed on was this: we are doing everything in our power to be ready if the mountain gives us the opportunity. We’re addressing small things early. We’re getting calories in. We’re resting. We’re keeping our minds steady through the unknowns and emotional whiplash of expedition life.

What we cannot control is the mountain. 

The weather. 

The great winds.

With high winds now and more in the forecast — we’ve decided to hold steady at base camp another day. So tomorrow, we rest again. 

We take care of ourselves as much as we can in the hopes that the jet stream winds die down, in the hopes that we will get the chance to climb. And there is still definitely hope! Do we need things to go our way? Yes. Very much yes.

We will stay focused on the now, stay focused on the things we can control. And have a darn good time while we’re doing it. Tonight that looks like dinner and a round (or three) of Telephone Pictionary. Staying up a little later than planned. Laughing at the absurdity of it all. And tomorrow, we’ll do it all again. 

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Aconcagua team 

Thursday, February 5, 2026 - 8:32 pm PT

Puebla, Mexico a city founded in April 1531 was the location of the Cinco de Mayo battle where Mexican forces defeated the French on May 5, 1862 even though they were outnumbered two to one.  This is also the location where the 2026 RMI Mexican Volcano expedition team took its first day of rest after summiting volcano Ixta.  Puebla is a bustling city with beautiful churches, lots of shopping, and very kind locals.  Some of the RMI expedition team did sight seeing tours, some shopped for loved ones back home, and others just took it easy. 

Puebla is set up in a grid system so it’s easy to navigate.  Like everywhere else the team has been all the locals are excited to interact with the expedition team even know our Spanish is mediocre at best.  

During our evening in Puebla the team enjoyed a group dinner where we chatted about preparations for Orizaba and discussed how each other’s days went.  We also had the privilege to listen to live karaoke at the supper establishment.  

Highlights of Puebla, good rest, good people, and wonderful food! The expedition team is now physically and mentally ready for Orizaba.  Puebla is an absolute hidden gem of inland  Mexico.

RMI Climber Jason White

Day two in Ecuador and we are already tagging 15,000'! The teleferico (gondola) whisked us up to 13,000, and then we started the hike through the gently rolling highlands below Rucu Pichincha. Swirling clouds throughout the day kept us from getting our first views of Cayambe and Cotopaxi, but also kept the sun at bay and made for pleasant hiking temperatures. After an hour or so of hiking through the grasslands the gradient kicked up and we started to pick up elevation quickly, traversing exposed slopes around to the far side of the peak, where a short but fun scramble brought us to the summit of Rucu Pichincha at 15,407'. With overcast skies and rain in the forecast we were on the lookout for afternoon thunderstorms, but the team moved well and we made quick work of the descent before any rain drops could reach us. 

Now we're all back at Hotel Mercure to rest the legs, dry out our trail shoes and pack up to leave the big city tomorrow. The team is feeling strong, psyched and ready for Cayambe! 

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo

After our big day yesterday, it was time for another alpine start. In the wee hours of 10am we began our trek on the O Circuit. The first section of our loop around the Towers. Today is a mellow day, especially compared to the hike to the base of towers. Taking half the time and climbing a fraction of the elevation. Today could be called an active rest day. A term that anyone who has climbed with me in the past would poke fun at me for suggesting. 

We weave and wind our way through the foothills of the mountains, mostly hiking through the low desert like terrain that certain parts of Patagonia offer. While enjoying the sweeping views that a lack of tall trees lends us a beautiful blue river, the Paine River, carves the landscape and we follow it all the way to Seron Camp. An open field with big views and a cozy hut where we will eat dinner. Tomorrow is a bigger day, but one that ends in my favorite camp of the whole trek, Lago Dickson. Wish us luck and keep hoping for clear skies!! 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Wednesday, February 4, 2026 - 10:23 PM PT

Today was a carry high, sleep low kind of day.

We hauled big loads up to Camp 1 at 16,400 ft. The winds were a little spicy, and combined with heavy packs it made for a hard push. Slow steps. Focused breathing. Lots of internal pep talks.

But wow. The views.

The colors up there are unreal — reds and oranges — like someone dropped us on Mars. It’s wild how brutal and beautiful can coexist so loudly.

We stayed up high for about an hour and a half to cache our gear and give our bodies time to adapt. Eat. Drink. Breathe. 

Then we turned around and sailed back down to base camp. We don’t use the f-word on this mountain — fast. But we did move very, very efficiently. Skiing down the scree with light packs.

And waiting for us when we got back?

Our local team, Grajales, welcoming us with an incredible recepción: fresh fruit, cheese, meats, crackers, and endless cups of jugo. Truly elite hospitality.

Right on cue, the clouds started building — and almost the second we made it back to camp, the snow arrived. A quick squall of wind and snow blew through, reminding us who’s in charge up here. Luckily, we were already in our  warm dome tent, listening to the wind do its thing outside while we stayed cozy inside.

It’s been an unpredictable weather year on the mountain, so we’re watching the forecast closely and hoping those bigger winds ease up soon.

The good news?

We’ve earned another rest day tomorrow. 

More mountain soon,

RMI Guide Jess Wedel & the Aconcagua team