Entries from Torres del Paine
Today we started our full circuit trek of
Torres del Paine trek with beautiful blue skies and no wind. We saddled our packs and headed off across the open sage bush landscape. We wandered across glacial fed streams and through beach tree forests. With guannaco and Caracara bird sightings we took lots of pictures. We had hot tea along the trail for lunch and pulled into our camp with a few hours to take a shower and hang out before dinner. After dinner we listened to live music by the local cowboys and even participate in the traditional Chilean dances. After the first day with these packs I noticed people were trying to share their snacks first and offer Cliff bars around to lighten the load. Everyone is in great spirits and enjoying the warm sunshine here in Patagonia. Hopefully, tomorrow brings another photogenic day on the trail as we head around the more remote parts of the towers.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
After some coffee and chit chat this morning the group spent three hours deciding which baselayer to pack and which hooded puffy to bring and how many pairs of socks to carry---you know what I'm talking about if you're reading this. We got our packs down to about 30 pounds and didn't leave any chocolate behind. Then we hopped in a boat and crossed the
Straits of Magellan to walk around a huge penguin colony in the middle of the ocean. It was fun to see them so close and hear them talking to one another. Now in Natales we're going to get some treats before hitting the trail for the next nine days.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Everyone arrived from hours of traveling to a sunny
Punta Arenas. We walked around the streets of this once booming port town that was essential for all boats moving across the Americas before the Panama canal. It is now a sleepy town with a rich history of Magellan and all the boats that have passed through. We went to the cemetery where all the trees are perfectly pruned and saw the giant bronze statue of Magellan that rumor has it if you rub his toe you'll be back to Punta Arenas some day. We all had a great dinner of local seafood and lots of potatoes. The group is looking forward to spending a week trekking and taking in this remarkable place.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Greetings from Chileno Hut. Uneventful 10-mile day we had... just astonishing views left and right as we contoured the Paine Horns into the
Ascencio Valley, which will eventually take us to the base of the Towers. Our goal is to see the sunrise, so we're heading to bed early.
We'll check-in from Puerto Natales tomorrow!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Good afternoon from "The Frances Domes Camp". We have just returned from our hike to what might be the visual highlight of our trip-
The French Valley. After two days of short stages and rainy weather, we had outstanding meteorology to surmount the trail that leads up to the amphitheater where three to four thousand feet rock faces reign majestic over the park. Needles like the Cathedral or the Sword, or massives like the Blade, the Castle, or Paine Grande are nothing but jaw dropping. Hanging glaciers, turquoise lakes, and lenticular clouds above added just the extra touch to make the eight-hour round trip worthwhile.
We're approaching the end of our trip, but everyone keeps enjoying the fascination that awaits around every corner like the first day.
Today we moved to geodesic domes, which at the shore of Lake Nordenskjöld, provide some sort of surreal lodging alternative; pretty cool indeed.
Tomorrow another long day awaits, as we get closer to connecting the loop we started well over a week ago.
Remain expectant to more surprises!
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Our second day at Glacier Grey Camp afforded us an opportunity to get up close and personal with the bottom tip of the
Southern Patagonian Ice Field, a massive expanse of glacial ice spanning 270 km. A gleeful 20-minute ride in a speedboat across Lago Grey deposited us at the foot of the moraine, where we set out on our approach across smooth, rocky ledges with their painterly striated patterns, fossil imprints, and telling scrapes and scars.
After an hour of scrambling through chutes and ladders, our Skittle-colored team of alpine outerwear landed itself at the gear cache our local guide team had waiting for us at the base of the ice. We transitioned into crampon and ice axe mode, but not before receiving a quick crash course on glacier travel skills. Up the slope we went, our metal spikes crunching along the firm ice. It was hard to keep our hands off our cameras, with impressive landscapes beckoning our gaze in all directions, but walking on the irregular surface required our full attention to keep a clumsy foot from plummeting into any one of the many nooks and crannies on the icy floor beneath us.
The pools of melt water were a brilliant blue color almost too fluorescent to believe that nature could produce it. A highlight of the trek was stopping to pose like alpine goddesses at the opening of a cavern where a stream of water rushed along the the icy chute.
A warm meal back at our hut sent us off to bed dreaming about our next day's adventure along the classic "W" route on the front side of the Park.
Bridget Schletty
The equator of our journey has been reached; greetings from
Lake Grey. We had an interesting (by all means) hike between "Los Perros camp" and Grey Hut. With the longest of our stages ahead, an early start despite the lingering rain showers, was required. Soon after dawn we were packing up and heading uphill towards Gardner Pass, the highest point of our entire trek, with deteriorating weather. The rain became snow, and the wind gusts plastered it against our gloves, packs and faces reminding us of where we were. But the group didn't give in, and despite a long 3 hours of unpleasant coldness, slippery trails and loaded packs, we reached the saddle that would initiate our descent to the western slope of the Olguin Range.
Winds died down, precipitation vanished and clouds lifted; the Patagonian Gods had now befriended us as a recognition for the perseverance of everyone in the group. As a reward, they laid out a view of the Glacier Grey, one of the terminus of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the third largest continental mass of ice on the planet. Wow.
The day continued uneventful, warm and pleasant, just with long hours of hiking to complete a 13 mile day of rugged terrain that, after five days, brought us to the place where day tourist visit coming by boat from the other side of the lake, completely oblivious of what it takes to make it here unmotorized.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
Good evening from "Los Perros Camp". Our third day marked a before and after on our trip; the start of the journeys along the less crowded "back side of the park" which is walked by a fraction of a percentage of the visitors, the narrower and more primitive trails, the more frequent but also elusive fauna (indigenous ducks, woodpeckers or owls were seen along the path...) are now our territory. But it also marked a change in the weather, which has confined us to our tents since we arrived to camp. Being in
Patagonia, is a synonym for mysticism, and glacial lakes, towering peaks and dense forests wouldn't be the same without its clouds, misty rain and restless winds. With the gradual climb that we started in the morning, we arrived at the highest camp of all where we'll spend a night. Not too wet, and in great spirits, we had dinner under the covered structure that the park service erected here, and we're now headed to bed in anticipation of the big day ahead tomorrow.
More to come from our adventure,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
And day two on the trails went by...
Greetings from Lake Dickson!
What a pleasant journey we had. Walking along the park boundary, following the Paine River, we had the Argentinean border at a stone's throw to the right for most of the day. We learned about several local flower and plant species (too bad the orchids were already withered) and experience also some Patagonian weather, with stronger winds and rain as we surmounted the highest point of the day "Paso del Viento", but that in no means slowed anyone down during the short time it lasted. Upon arrival to camp, the views of the first glaciers popped up from within the mountains and an evening hike along the beach of Lake Dickson, after dinner, brought us the reward of seeing small icebergs afloat its waters as dusk approached. More to come tomorrow, stay tuned and follow along!
RMI Guides Elías de Andres Martos
And Day One on the trails just happened. A cloudy and windy morning in Puerto Natales, gave way to sunny skies at the gate of the
Torres Del Paine National Park. The incredible relief of the rock monoliths was a huge contrast with anything around us so far, prompting constant jaw dropping photo opportunities, as curious guanacos (small camel like animals) posed to complete the scene. Our time along the trails was a pleasant warm up of five hours along the foothills of Cerro Paine, where a solid hour of hiking through wild daisy flower meadows was the most iconic. We're now camped at Seron Camp, where its cook "Pollo" prepared a delicious soup and chicken dish for us.
Stay tuned for more!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Previous Page
Leaving a message for my girl Karen Serblowski ❤️
Hey girl!!!!! Every step you take is another in the right direction -sending you my love. Courage, my Heart…. can’t wait to see you xoxo
Posted by: Christine Fortier on 2/28/2018 at 8:30 am
Happy sailing to Magdalena island! Bet ya can’t just take 1 pic of the penguins.i had 1000’s! Luv ya and happy trekking.
Posted by: Elsie on 2/19/2018 at 6:12 am
View All Comments