Entries from Torres del Paine
Our 12 mile hike from Seron to Lago Dickson was an enjoyable day that consisted of rolling hills, tall grass and sporadic forests. We started paralleling the Paine River, “Paine” means blue in the native language. We were moving for about seven hours today, stopping often to take pictures and take in the views of glaciers and mountains that were covered with dark clouds from time to time.
Besides a few birds we didn’t see much wildlife. As we climbed a small hill between two knolls we got a good look at the Dickson Glacier that extends into Argentina and creates Lago Dickson, Rio Paine and Lago Paine. The camp is located on a large flat that has nice river access, large trees to act as a wind break and great mountain vistas.
We continue to eat well, have fun conversations with in our team and other hikers. Once at camp the charcuterie board and vino appeared and our team enjoyed some showers, time in the sun and kicking a soccer ball around. The dinners have been good, a salad, soup, meat and rice typically. Tomorrow we walk to Los Perros Camp. Life is pretty, pretty, pretty good out here.
RMI Guide Mike King
Today we got a casual start with a two hour drive to the Torres del Paine National Park. On the way we saw 20+ guanacos, which is a wild cameloid, similar to a llama. As we got closer to the park, flamingos and rheas where sighted.
The weather was overcast but we got some views of the glaciers and rock towers that this area is known for. Our hike to Campamento Seron was 5.5 miles and consisted of nice trail and beautiful Patagonia scenery. The tall grasses, wind bent trees and milky emerald green rivers kept people taking photos and enjoying conversations. We are in camp for the night, music in the background, good food being prepared and a charcuterie board with a few bottles of Chilean red wine to kick this trip off right.
RMI Guide Mike King
This is Mike, checking in for the Torres del Paine trekkers here in Punta Arenas. Everyone arrived after a long two days of travel. We got an early start to head to Isla Magdelana located in the Strait of Magellan to see a colony of Magellan penguins. The Strait of Magellan is protected from the weather of Cape Horn and one of the most important passages between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. The hour and half boat ride was calm with nice views of the fractured land that makes up Southern Patagonia. Arriving to the island we had some ground rules laid out to not impact the penguins who are raising their near grown young. The young penguins are shedding their feathers in preparation for a northern migration along the coast of Argentina, Uruguay and even Southern Brazil.
After an hour of walking and taking in the mix of penguins, gulls and brown skua we loaded up to head towards a sea lion colony. From the idling boat we took in these animals that number around 2,000. The smell traveled across the water while the young ones played in the water and swam close to the boat out of curiosity. On our return to Punta Arenas we saw a few Peale’s dolphins swimming alongside the boats. The remainder of the day will be spent in transit to Puerto Natales where we will pack for the start of our Torres del Paine trek. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
We connected the circuit today. Made it full circle around the
Torres del Paine Massive! It was fun to see where we started, not fully knowing what was ahead and now how far we've come. The group has really hit their stride in terms of packing up in the mornings, falling in their favorite order on the trail, and even taking siestas at lunch time. It's always fun for me to see a group start wide-eyed and overwhelmed get so comfortable with trail life. This group has definitely done that. Most people on this trip, had not spent nine days out and carried their gear but now they make it look natural.
The scenery did not disappoint today. We spent all morning watching lenticular clouds form and move off in the distance. We walked around Lake Nordensjold all day appreciating the color contrasts around us. Tomorrow some of the group is going to walk up to the towers, others will go halfway and enjoy the views, and others will treat themselves to a massage--very deserving. Then we will head back to town. It always feels bittersweet leaving the trail. Yes, we are looking forward to pizza and home but we will miss the peace and simplicity that Patagonia has shared with us.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Here in Patagonia, you drink the water right out of the streams. It is sourced in the glaciers that hang off the
towering granite above us. We hike all day with an empty water bottle and just fill up at breaks. They say it makes you strong enough to complete the circuit and it's definitely worked for this group. Tomorrow we will connect the dots and walk back to where we started, covering over 100 miles. It's hard to describe what we've seen because the landscape is awe inspiring around every corner.
Today's team member shout-out is to a super fun loving couple from Wisconsin that love to laugh. They inspire us all with a passion for adventure and travel.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
What a day?! The sun glistened off the blue icebergs and the breeze kept us cool on the trail. This group has really found their stride. Breakfast of eggs and freshly baked bread, walking with lots of photo breaks, lunch time, and more walking. What more could we want? We all support one another by reaching people's water bottles for them or offering around sunscreen. But the couple from Nashville truly steal the show when it comes to generosity. This couple is the first to share their favorite trail snacks (honey stinger gummies) and even offer to take more weight. They are the kindest badasses around and have many more trails to hike and mountains to climb in their future!
Other than this great group of people, some
trail highlights have been watching the condors soar, seeing the granite towers, and being surrounded by turquoise waters. The food is also worth mentioning; grilled salmon, stuffed chicken, pork on chili mashed potatoes...it's a treat. But I'm sure we'll all return home looking like svelte explorers. ;) Now I'm off for another amazing dinner with a view.
RMI Guide
Christina Dale and team
We somehow timed our rest day well with the weather. As it rained cats and dogs we drank coffee, lounged on couches, and took naps in the lodge. We did venture out in the weather this afternoon for a boat ride in a zodiac dodging icebergs. After making plenty of Titanic jokes, we nosed the boat into a large nunitac, a rock island in the middle of a glacier, and hopped out. We donned crampons, helmets, and ice axes for exploring
Grey Glacier and headed up the ice. It was full of waterways, ice sculptures, and dune-like landscapes. Our expedition left us wet and ready for dinner. Let's hope either our gloves dry or the weather clears for tomorrow.
RMI Guide
Christina Dale and Team
Congratulations to the team for succeeding on such a tough day. We crossed over the
John Gardner pass today in the wind, rain, and snow. We started hiking early in the morning to get a start on the long day ahead. The first hour or two we spent dodging mud pits by balancing on wet slippery roots. The next two hours we headed up, and up, and up over scree and through river beds. Once on top of the pass, the fun began and the next six hours of the day we spent walking down steep rocks and slippery mud.
Today's team member highlight goes to a woman who self proclaimed "this is the hardest thing she's ever done." She is a strong and graceful social worker from Wisconsin. We are all lucky to travel through this rugged Patagonia landscape with her.
Now we celebrate our strenuous day though very challenging weather, at the Grey hut where we'll be for two nights. The hut is full of people huddling around the fireplace to dry out layers. After the past three nights of quiet huts or camping it is nice to have the luxuries of this lodge but it seems a little louder than we're used to. The team is all happy to have a rest day tomorrow with a chance to explore the Grey Glacier.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
We spent the day walking along the Perro's River from Dickson to
Perro's Camp. It is named Perros, Spanish for dog, because legend has it that when ranchers used to live here and cross the rivers on horseback, some dogs would get swept away in the river. The story goes that the dogs formed a pack of wild dogs that still roams this land and if you listen closely you can hear barking at night. The river flows through the oldest forests in the park that have large trees because when the glacier move through this valley it churned up the soil leaving it loose and easier for deep root systems to form.
It was enjoyable to hike under their lush green canopy as sun was filtered through. Also, great to have a day with no wind. It gave our sun and wind chapped cheeks a rest. But our cheeks are rosy now after some wine and cheese snacks and sitting around laughing at our wildlife biologist's stories of botflys. This group has so much fun learning each other's backgrounds and sharing tales. We even had to come up with a system to determine the exaggeration level. But that's for another blog. Now we are settling in preparing for John Gardner pass tomorrow. A little intimidating with its steep ascent and decent and many miles but I'm sure this group will do well and come out smiling.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
We all felt like this was a long approach to the trail head, what with the flying for two days and a bus ride the next, but well worth it. We finally hit the trail at noon today and were instantly swept into the beauty of the
Patagonian landscape. Happily walking and talking we passed through forests of lenga trees, in the beach family, and through the golden grass lands. All the lakes and streams here are a different shade of turquoise based on which glaciers feed them.
After pulling into Seron Camp we had wine and cheese for appetizers, a stroll by the river, and an amazing dinner of salmon. All a little travel weary, we'll get good sleep tonight and be ready for more tomorrow. Everyone is doing really well and send their best to those following!
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Awesome job Christina!! :)
Posted by: Kim Lowe on 2/18/2019 at 8:30 pm
How you go Nini,
Sounds like a great trip. Happy Valentines.
Safe trip back
Love Dad
Posted by: peter von Mertens on 2/14/2019 at 9:43 am
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