Entries from Peru Seminar
July 31, 2015
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 19,512'
Summit day.
This morning we got up a little after midnight to a starry calm night. We ate breakfast and put the final touches on our packing and just before two o'clock in the morning we marched out of camp. Within 40 minutes we encountered steep snow slopes and began pitching it out. We slowly worked our way up our route climbing close to 2,000 feet of beautiful ice and snow. The whole team did a fantastic job today. We reached the
summit of Alpamayo just before 8:00 AM. Tired as we were, everyone stayed focused for our decent and we walked back into camp tired but extremely happy. We will begin our descent to Base Camp tomorrow.
Thanks so much for following along on our climb. It has truly been an honor to climb such a beautiful peak with such a great group.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
July 30, 2015
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 17,880'
Today was a rest day at high camp and the team took full advantage. Most of us have been napping, stretching, hydrating, and getting strong. A few of us, including myself, had a little bit of a rumbling gut last night and this morning but everyone seems to recovering quickly today.
Excitement is very high is we look up at the beautiful
summit face with its steep ice runnels. Like a siren it is calling to us and with calm winds and blue skies it is impossible to ignore. Our forecast for tomorrow looks perfect as well so for now, we wait.
Thanks for following us on this fantastic climb.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo Team
July 29, 2015
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 17,880'
Hello from High Camp. Today we woke up with the sun hitting our tents at
Moraine Camp and not a cloud in sight. We had breakfast and coffee and packed up. This was our first time with crampons and ice tools of the trip. It took a stretch or two but we all fell into a good cadence. Soon we found ourselves nearing the Col but a few steep steps of snow and ice separated us from camp. Though it was difficult with heavy backpacks we all climbed very well up to the Col. Here we finally got our first view of the southwest face of
Alpamayo that we will climb. It is perhaps one of the most beautiful mountains I have ever seen and our line is striking and direct. Everyone is very excited for the ascent.
The team did very well today and everyone is happy and healthy. Most likely we will take a rest day tomorrow and climb on Friday.
Thanks for following along with us.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo Team!
July 28, 2015
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 16,240'
This morning we woke to coffee in bed and blue skies above. We had a leisurely morning, after breakfast we napped in the sun and slowly packed our bags. At mid day we had a delicious lunch and spent some more time packing and digesting before hoisting our packs and heading up to
Moraine Camp. Everyone did a fantastic job getting up here. Shortly after we moved into the tents our porters arrived with tea and dinner, these guys are amazing! We are now enjoying the alpine glow on some of the surrounding peaks of the Cordillera Blanca before turning in for the night.
The team is doing great and very excited to be making up hill progress again.
Thanks for following along with us.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team
July 27, 2015
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,270'
Today's blog is brought to you by the team:
July 27, 2015: Peru, South America with a group of Americans...
Our
rest day today proved to bring out the restlessness in these children (yes, us). Promptly following coffee in bed and a two course breakfast, the team took to sun bathing. Once the Vitamin D production quotas were met for the day, the team selected their bathing suits and headed for the lake! A quick 20 minute hike led us to the alpine lake and picturesque view. Testosterone quickly kicked in when the team hit the rocky beach and noticed the glacier that was feeding ice into the lake. It took mere minutes for the team to jump in. Robert took a little convincing but peer pressure won the day. After an unforgettable day of bonding, we all feel blessed to have each other's company and grateful to be sharing this experience in such a majestic place. What happens on the mountain...gets posted to the blog.
Oh yea, almost forgot, we rode icebergs in a glacial lake! Who else can say they did that in July?!
RMI Guide
Geoff Schellens and Team
July 26, 2015
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 16,300'
Good evening all, the team is doing great. Today we carried up to
Moraine Camp, 16,300'. After a leisurely pancake breakfast, we packed our climbing gear under blue skies and started hiking around ten o'clock. Unfortunately high clouds rolled in and by mid morning, though this made for a less-impressive view, we were glad for the cooler temperatures as we made our way up the rocky slopes to Moraine Camp. Everyone did a great job with the moderate loads and the new altitude, 16,300 feet. After caching our gear we made our way back to Base Camp for lunch and a relaxing afternoon. Tomorrow we will sleep in and enjoy a full rest day.
Thanks for following along,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the
Alpamayo team
July 25, 2015
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,200'
Today we awoke to blue sky's and light wind, coffee in bed followed by a fantastic breakfast. After breaking camp we helped load the donkeys and continued hiking up the beautiful Santa Cruze valley. With every step more sunning mountain seemed to reveal themselves, truly an awe inspiring place. After a couple hours of hiking we turned north and climbed some switchbacks before sauntering into our Base Camp at 14,200'. We all got our first look at
Alpamayo, one of the most beautiful peaks I have ever seen. Shortly after arriving to our Base Camp lunch was served, soup and pasta, quite tasty. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing and bathing in the river.
The team is doing very well and we are all excited to be here.
Thanks for following along with us
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team
July 25, 2015
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 10,000'
Greetings from Huaraz!
The team finished the expedition yesterday, arriving safe and sound to the capital of the Ancash district of Peru, but also the capital of Andean climbing. Our descent to the trail head at
Cashapampa, with the help of horses, was an extraordinary experience. We took our time to enjoyed for the last time the views of the massively snow fluted peaks and turquoise lakes down valley. Right on time for a shower and a celebratory dinner, the arrival at the hotel marked the end of our climbing adventure. We'll spend the day today relaxing in Huaraz and enjoying a Pachamanca, typical Peruvian meal cooked underground, with our local guide and outfitter's family, before packing for tomorrow's departure to Lima and flights back home.
Thanks to all for following and cheering for this team during our climb! We just say bye now until next year's expedition, wishing best of luck to Geoff's Schellens' team, who's currently starting the 2nd RMI Alpamayo climb this season.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
July 24, 2015
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 12,300'
Today we made our first steps towards
Alpamayo. After an early start from Huaraz we drove north for about three hours with the entire Cordillera Blanca Range glistening in the morning light. Truly spectacular. After reaching Cashapampa, we disembarked from our van, met our cook and helped load the donkey with our gear for the trip. Finally the whole expedition starts. Excitement was high as we began our approach to base camp. The first hour and a half of the hike was up steep switchbacked terrain after which it mellowed and became a gradual meandering trail up the Santa Cruse Valley. Our camp tonight is called Llama Corral, 12,300 feet, and about halfway up the valley. Tomorrow we should reach base camp by early afternoon.
The team is doing very well, everyone is climbing strong, staying healthy, and excited for what's to come.
Thanks for following along with us!
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team
July 23, 2015
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,270'
We are back at the comfort of lower elevations, the meals of our cook Emilio, and the safety of the Andean meadow in which it sits. Our summit climb yesterday was incredible; mainly because of the climbing ability of our climbers, (providing the fastest and most efficient one this guide has had) but also because the weather, conditions and surroundings. We had the mountain to ourselves, which contributed too. This morning, we had to drag our feet out of
Camp 2, since a whiteout engulfed us upon waking up. The weather gave us a break and without hesitation, we started our descent to BC. We know we're not done till we dismount our horses tomorrow at the trailhead, but our sense of accomplishment makes us believe so; we have climbed, arguably and according to many, the most beautiful mountain in the world. We're going now to rest that thought in the warmth of the first night not on the glacier in a few days, and let you know all about it tomorrow from our hotel.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Congratulations to the team! Well done! It seems as if we crossed paths just yesterday. Happy trails out.
Posted by: Wolf Riehle on 8/1/2015 at 7:11 pm
Excitement and “Vivas” !!!
Congrats and pat on the back for each of you… GREAT JOB!!
A huge hug from your family, Jesse
Mom, Dad, Virgie, Evencio Jr, and Zelda
<3 you!
Posted by: Luz on 8/1/2015 at 5:41 pm
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