Entries from Mountaineering Fitness & Training
To begin a conditioning plan for mountaineering, first establish the baseline of your current fitness level.  This baseline allows you to compare your current strengths to what you’ll need on the climb.  With this, we can compose a training plan that builds steady improvement between now and the day you set off for the mountains.
Â
To illuminate the task ahead, and to build a plan, consider these questions:Â
• What are the physical requirements of the climb (ie. pack weight, number of days, hours spent each day)?
• How much time do I have before I climb?
• What are my fitness strengths?
• How much weight can I carry and for how long?Â
To determine the physical requirements of the climb, look to RMI’s office and website.  RMI provides details on the equipment we will be carrying, the itinerary, and the duration of the climb.
How much time is there before the climb? Â Take out a calendar or a blank sheet of paper and consider how to fit in the three phases of training:
1. Beginning (adaptation)
2. Building
3. Peaking (the final preparation before the climb)
Assessing your fitness strengths with a visit to a qualified athletic trainer will help to quantify your current level of fitness. Â Or, visit a park and hike your favorite loop or trail with a weighted backpack to gain realistic insight into your capabilities. Â What I like about assessing the time and weight is that it is simple and you can do it today.
Â
As we move ahead, I encourage you to think about whether you prefer to approach your training scientifically or intuitively. Â Do you prefer hiring a coach, or do you like to be your own coach? Both methods are successful - sometimes a combination is a nice way to go about it. Â Throughout training, I encourage you to be consistently aware of two important factors: How long can I go? How much can I carry? On the mountain, these two things really matter.Â
Â
As an exercise for this week, set aside time to visit a park, sports stadium, or a local hiking area. Â See how it feels. The purpose of this session is not to push to a maximum effort but to simply experience how it feels to carry a pack up and down inclines.Â
Â
My encouragement is to not do too much. The "safety first" rule applies to training as well as the mountains.  Too much too soon can have a negative effect, or even risk an injury.  If this is new to you... don’t feel overwhelmed if today you feel that you have a long way to go.Â
Â
Two years ago in October, I trained with my friend Kim Porto. Â She had her sights set on climbing Mt. Rainier and trekking to Everest Base Camp during the following eighteen months. Â She had never hiked before. Â On day one, we walked stairs for twenty minutes with our running shoes and no pack. Â It was enough. Â From there, we mapped out a plan that steadily increased the training with hiking, stair work, and strength training. Â By steady training over the months ahead, Kim accomplished both her Rainier climb and her trek to Everest Base Camp.Â
Â
Remember that moderation and consistency are the keys to success in building endurance!
Â
- John Colver
Â
           Â
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
I'll never forget the day I decided to be a mountain climber. I was sixteen years old, sitting in a lecture hall at Edinburgh University - captivated by the slideshow being presented by the famous British Expedition Leader, Sir Chris Bonnington and his climbing partner Doug Scott. After it ended I got myself to the front and spoke to the man himself asking, "How do you begin to start to plan an expedition?"
Â
"Just get your boots on, Lad", was the reply, accompanied by a larger-than-life grin and a firm handshake.Â
Â
I had no response. However, that one comment led to many climbs the Scottish Highlands - and ultimately - onto years of expeditions, mountain climbing including a long stint as a guide. It's been a long and satisfying adventure so far!Â
Â
I think that after the decision to climb Mt. Rainier or any other major mountain, there ought be a celebratory moment: a pause to mark the start of the preparation and to consider what the months ahead will look like. The climb may be a long way out, but the adventure starts now.
Â
What are some considerations at this point? I recommend taking an inventory of the following: Â
Â
- Time
- Equipment
- Fitness & Health
- Location & available resources
Â
Time: What time do I have to train? Be realistic about how many hours per week and also consider any vacation time in the months ahead. Is there a day (or half day) each week you can devote to training? What can you do on a daily basis? Can you combine training and a commute? Walk to work with a pack? Ride a bike?Â
Â
Equipment: Will you be renting or will you likely need some gear of your own? To begin your training, all you'll need now are shoes, boots, a backpack and workout/hiking clothes. And going forward, there'll be good time to experiment with socks, layering and other clothing. Depending where you live (anyone reading this from Chicago or the northern states?), you might get some good use of cold-weather gear this winter during your training.Â
Â
Fitness & Health: In next week's blog post we'll discuss how to set a baseline. Now is a good time to think about your strengths and any areas you want to improve. In terms of health, this might be a good time to schedule an annual physical examination, to visit the dentist, to take a look at your overall diet, and to generally consider what your athletic lifestyle will look like going forwards.
Â
Location and Available Resources: A climber can train for mountaineering anywhere. However, if you are living in Florida, stationed on a military base halfway around the world, or getting ready for a northern winter, some creativity and imagination will make things more successful. In terms of resources at hand, do you have access to hiking trails? Are there hills? Can you get to a gym or have access to a stair-master or elliptical machine? Do you have a place at home, work, or school where you can workout? Is there a local yoga class, training facility, spin class, or swimming pool? Do you even like any of these activities? Do you have a workout partner, a fitness coach, or a personal trainer?Â
Â
We'll discuss program design over the next few weeks. For now, a little time considering all of the options available will spark your imagination as to what is going to work for you. I've always thought that the best fitness program is the one you actually do. Personally, I like to enjoy my training and I like there to be variety and somewhat of a social aspect to it all. You'll be putting in some hours and days of preparation over the months ahead and making it as fun and interesting as possible will boost results.Â
Â
Your climb is months away, yet the adventure has already begun. Congratulations on getting started!
Â
- John Colver
Â
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventXÂ brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle.
Previous Page
I have some big mountaineering goals. I’m not sure how much training and fitness is necessary. I’m trading for Ironman Lake Tahoe as a way to get fit for mountaineering. Is doing this enough fitness?
I have asked this question here before. I still have not heard from anyone. I would hate to find out I don’t have enough fitness on the mountain.
Posted by: Will Beaubien on 2/9/2014 at 6:05 pm
Any opinions on CrossFit? I’m somewhat short on time and do this about four times a week. It’s fun. I also do a long endurance hike with weight 4+ hours once a week. I fight forest fires during the summer for the Forest Service and this is my off season training regime. I’m aiming to climb Rainier via the Kautz glacier or another similar route. Any suggestions for adding to or changing my training plan? Thanks!
Posted by: Tim on 10/13/2013 at 7:32 pm
View All Comments