Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Saturday, June 21, 2025 - 10:26 pm PT

We woke to clouds and a little wind today, but still got in plenty of solstice sun.  The poor weather in the morning actually worked to our advantage. We needed to drop back down to 10,000 feet on the Kahiltna to get our cached supplies and then return up the big hill below 11,000.  That hill is in a glacial bowl that can become quite hot with straight out sunshine.  We found it to be just right with breezes and cloud cover this morning. We were back up before noon.

We are done with snowshoes and on to crampons for the steeper terrain to come. In the afternoon we alternated between rest and review of climbing techniques for the path ahead. If weather allows we will try to put a cache just beyond Windy Corner at 13,500 ft. 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Saturday, June 21, 2025 - 8:30 pm PT

Hello!
And welcome back for another installment of Doing Really Hard Things for Fun-Denali Edition.
I'm Aspen, and today I will be your host.
Previously, the team has gone up, up and down, up, down and up, up and down, up, down and up, and finally up and down again on their quest to climb The Tall One, the highest peak in North America, Denali.
After the most technical day yet, climbing up and down the fixed lines to cache gear and food for their summit attempt, the eclectic team looks forward to a day of rest.
Today, on the longest day of the year, we sleep in, tired not only from a physically taxing day at altitude, but also from staying up late watching. movies, like Deadpool, in our tents or playing the most riveting game of Texas Dice yet. Shout out to Etienne for stealing the win from not one, but two other players with his final roll of nearly 3,000 points. 
The day started out with delicious blueberry pancakes, made by Dom, after which the group split to relax in various ways. Some of us went on a walk or two to warm our toes, while others snuggled back into sleeping bags where good books and knitting await. We chat, we nap, we do some self care. The cook tent serves as a gathering place. People come in and out throughout the day. Sometimes to share snacks; other times to play games or read in the company of others. Without any defined tasks for the day, we are forced to slow down and take in the views. The mountains around us look different today, like they seem to every day. I am filled with a sense of adventure and awe. This is what I love about climbing. The amazing views, the good company, and the incredible sense of pride I get from doing really hard things.
After having such perfect weather thus far, the winds have blown in clouds. They pass over and through camp throughout the day leading to constantly changing temperatures and visibility. Snow falls and taps on the tent walls, and so the waiting game begins.
Do we have enough toilet paper? Does anyone die of boredom? Do I get so sick of my hair that I shave it off? Tune in next time to find out.
A special thank you to Jake and Nomad for all their love and support of this Happy Cappy.
Until next time, 

RMI Climber Aspen Hansen out.

The Four Day Climb June 19 0 22 led by RMI Guides Joe Hoch & Joe Crawford climbed strong to the top of Disappointment Cleaver, but above there zero visibility, strong winds and very cold temperatures turned us around. The team is now back at Camp Muir and will continue the descent to Paradise later this morning.

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Jess Wedel made a push toward the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning, the group reached 13,200 feet before Mother Nature made her presence known.

As the team ascended through the early morning hours, increasing winds and steady snowfall began to challenge their progress. With safety as the top priority, the guides made the decision to turn the team around just below the summit.  

Now back at Camp Muir, where light snow continues to fall, the team is regrouping and preparing for their descent to Paradise.

Friday, June 20, 2025 9:59pm PDT

Happy Solstice from 11,000 ft

Today was our longest climbing day of the trip so far. We were up just after 2 a.m., in the shadows of the Kahiltna Glacier. Climbing began at 4:20 a.m. on the now-familiar Ski Hill. It was a cool morning, and the walking was easier thanks to a hard overnight freeze.

The hill steepened as we gained elevation, offering a striking view of the pyramidal granite of the West Buttress towering ahead. The team remained in shadow—a welcome relief—when we paused near our 10,000 ft cache from yesterday.

Leaving the main glacier, we stepped into the sun as we entered the basin below 11 Camp. We made it into camp in just under six hours, then spent a couple more building a secure and comfortable site.

There are a few clouds drifting about, but we expect the sun to stay with us well into the Alaskan night.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Friday, June 20, 2025 10:02pm PDT

You must go up to go down, and go down to go up.

The team started the day with a simple yet efficient breakfast of cereal and coffee before donning their crampons, roping up, and beginning their walk out of camp at roughly 8:30 a.m.

The climb out of 14 Camp quickly gains elevation, built up by rolling slopes that offer brief stretches of reprieve before reaching the base of the fixed lines. A steep and icy headwall, the fixed lines provide both access to the upper mountain and a formidable challenge to anyone seeking passage. Installed each season by climbing rangers and maintained by guides, the fixed lines serve as a two-lane highway to Denali’s flank—the West Buttress.

The team made great progress, gaining elevation quickly as they found a rhythm in the often awkward and unfamiliar technique of fixed-line travel. After nearly 1,000 feet of “jugging” up various rope sections, the team broke through to the ridge, rounded a corner, and found shelter at the base of the Buttress—the high point for the day. Sheltered by rocky outcroppings, the team took a well-earned break while the guides collected gear to be left behind and dug out a cache.

Once the gear was stashed, the team turned and began the quite different, yet equally challenging, descent down the lines. Using arm wraps and steady footwork, they made their way down in a timely and stylish fashion.

Good snacks, a cozy tent, and the promise of a rest day awaited them upon return to 14 Camp.

RMI Guide Michael Bennet & Team

This morning, RMI Expeditions guides Jack Delaney and Joey Manship led their Four Day Climb teams to the summit of Mount Rainier—an incredible achievement for all involved!

The teams reached the top under dynamic mountain conditions, reporting broken clouds, light precipitation, and a cloud deck hovering around 8,700 feet. Despite the weather, spirits were high as climbers stood atop the 14,410-foot peak, many for the first time.

At 9:20 AM, the teams began their descent, and are currently en route to Camp Muir. 

Congratulations Team! 

Thursday, June 19, 2025 9:36pm PDT

We were up and at ’em at 3 a.m., trying to beat the heat. This had us moving up the glacier from our 8,000 ft camp by 5 a.m. First up was Ski Hill—a steeper and longer incline than anything we’ve tackled so far. It was tough, but conditions were excellent after a solid overnight freeze.

It took about four hours to reach our goal: the head of the Kahiltna Glacier at 10,000 feet. There, we dug a deep, raven-proof hole in the snow and cached food and fuel.

The descent was pleasant, with lighter loads and easy walking. The team rolled back into camp at 11:30 a.m. and sheltered in the tents to escape the afternoon sun.

Tomorrow, we’ll move past the cache and camp at 11,000 feet.

RMI Guide Sam Hoffman & Team

Thursday, June 19, 2025 9:27pm PDT

Today was, oxymoronically, an “active rest day.” Yesterday, we endured a grueling move of 3,200 feet with half our gear and established a new camp at 14,200 feet, so our bodies needed rest. But as any fitness enthusiast or doctor will tell you, it’s important to move a little even during recovery so your gears don’t get rusty.

We woke up to our first frost at 6:30 a.m. A quick granola bar for breakfast, and by 7:30 a.m., we were on the move. Our first task of the day was a back carry. We took a quick 15-minute jaunt down to our cache site at 13,500 feet, where we had stored half of our gear three days ago. Our dutiful guides dug out our belongings, and then we returned to camp in an hour.

We had a leisurely breakfast of pan-roasted bagels with cream cheese and bacon—a method of warming my Tarrytown bagels I’ll definitely adopt upon my return. After a brief respite, our second task at noon was to refine our campsite. Snow walls were built around our tent structures to protect us from high winds, and the bathroom and kitchen structures were spruced up.

The third activity of the day was a mid-afternoon refresher on how to walk along fixed lines with an ascender. By dinner, many of us were questioning whether we had experienced “active rest” or rather “restful activity.”

This location has me, a psychiatrist, reflecting on the psychological challenges people have spoken of during this trip. Retracing your steps on a back carry day can be a bit of a mind trip. Above us looms the steep hill that the fixed lines run along, rising 2,000 feet to the ridgeline of the West Buttress. It harkens to the long journey ahead.

However, two things keep me inspired and motivated. The first is the story of Barbara Washburn, who was the first woman to summit Denali in 1947. While at Camp 2, I read her memoir The Accidental Adventurer, which recounted her pioneering journeys. I tell myself that if she could accomplish so many feats with initially little experience and training, surely I can dig deep and find that grit too.

The second is remembering my emancipated ancestors on today, Juneteenth. So many people of that time, over the centuries, and even today, take long journeys of hundreds to thousands of miles seeking a better life. My journey on the mountain is pleasure-seeking and limit-pushing, but there are parallels in that the conditions are inhospitable and decisions here have life-or-death implications. Therefore, I am motivated to keep going despite my fatigue, trepidation, and excitement—knowing that my ancestors couldn’t stop, and I’m summoning their strength now.

Onward to more adventure.
Happy Juneteenth.

Adjoa Smalls-Mantey

Day 1: We left Ashford at 7:30 this morning and enjoyed good views and generally cool weather on our approach to the kautz. We’ve made an excellent camp on the lower castle and are batoning down the hatches for rough weather tonight—an essential expedition skill. - RMI Guide Eric frank

Day 2: Today we practiced a variety of skills including fixed line travel, crevasse rescue and avalanche beacon searches. We even took a little time for yoga before our summit talk! - RMI Guide Tom Skoog

Day 5: SUMMIT!  The Kautz Seminar team left camp and ascended the Kautz Ice Chute and reached the top of Wapowety Cleaver before gaining Point Success and then contining across to Columbia Crest. The team enjoyed some time in the crater before starting their descent. The team climbed strong with 100% of the group reaching the summit. They will return to camp and enjoy some rest and a final tent night.  Tomorrow they will continue their descent to Paradise and conclude their program.

Nice work team!

Photos: Tom Skoog