Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Make a Carry to 17,200’
Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
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Thursday, May 23, 2019 9:31 am PT
We had a good, long day of climbing on the West Buttress yesterday, pushing all the way the 17,200' camp with our cache.
The day started early and cold as we fired up our stoves hours before the sun was on our tents. After an efficient breakfast of granola and hot drinks, we prepared for our day of climbing. Except the mountain had different plans for our early start: a lenticular cloud cap had formed, indicating high winds. Plumes of blowing snow were visible from the summit down to the top of the fixed ropes (16,200'). So we pumped the breaks, stayed warm in our tents, and watched the weather unfold. Finally the winds seemed to abate and we left camp at 10:15. We encountered good climbing conditions and perfectly cool temperatures as we ascended out of camp and then up the fixed ropes. The lower part of the West Buttress was equally enjoyable. Once we topped Washburn's Thumb, around 17,000' we were met with 15-20 mph winds. Those wind speeds are generally not that alarming for mountain climbers, but at this altitude and the cold temps of Denali it made the climbing cold and more challenging.
Six hours after leaving camp we arrived at the 17,200' camp where we spent and hour and a half digging a cache hole, sorting gear, and breathing the rare air of altitude. The descent back to camp took us three hours, so vestibule to vestibule we had a 10 1/2 hour day--good training for summit day!
Today we are resting and I am about to fire the stoves for breakfast--this time a more leisurely affair with smoked salmon and cream cheese on toasted bagels, a true luxury at 14,200' on Denali.
The weather forecast is calling for a strong storm through the weekend. We'll watch how that develops, and hopefully get a weather window for an unmitigated bid early next week. But for now we will rest and fortify camp in anticipation of the weekend's storm.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
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Comments (5)
Hi Peter,
Hope all is well and you are enjoying the adventure. Sounds WAY harder than sailing to Hawaii, despite the smoked salmon and bagels! The scenery looks incredible. Stay warm and safe.
Naomi and the UBC PAR nurses
Posted by: Naomi Roddick on
Wonderful to hear you had such a successful climb yesterday!
Praying for your safety throughout the weekend.
Jim, think about sailing in the warm winds of codorus while you wait it out!!
I’ll be waiting.
xoxo
Mary Beth
Posted by: Mary Beth on
That’s a huge day! Hope everyone rested today and the coming weather isn’t too rough for you all.
Sending stamina and good cheer from Tom’s family in Vancouver, BC!
Posted by: Patty Ripley on
Wow! Sounds like yesterday was a successful and long day! And hopefully today was a relaxing quiet day enjoying the mountain and team!
This weekend sounds like a “hunkered down” weekend weathering a big storm. Yikes! Be safe and stay warm!
Big hugs to Tom M from family in Larkspur!
xo
Posted by: Susan Mulvey on
Hunker down, stay safe & and stay warm.
Sounds like it could be a weekend of socializing with other teams that are likewise hunkered down at 14200’. Enjoy.
Hugs to all. Special hugs to Tom M!
Posted by: Jacquie Byatt on