Mt. Everest Expedition: Resting at Base Camp
A hot shower... Cotton clothes... Chairs with backs... An appetite... Easy temperatures... Brain temporarily free of Icefall fixation...
Must be rest day #1. Still decompressing from the last week on high and not yet laser-focused on the coming week, which will be higher still. I am tempted to call the past week a good one, since we each came down healthy and with some clarity and confidence as to what will be next, but to be honest, it was a tough week in several ways.
While things went as planned for Sara, in that she got stronger and more acclimated with each day of the past rotation, that wasn't the case for her Dad. Bill, although strong and fit, was hitting some sort of personal limit in living at Advanced Basecamp and venturing to around 22,000 ft. Ultimately, we chose to get Sara the experience she needed on the Lhotse Face while her Dad stayed below. We knew eventually that we'd need to reformulate a plan for going ahead with the expedition.
Sara did climb well and strong with me to 23,000 ft a few days back. She didn't seem particularly fazed by the massive exposure and steep angles. She did a good job dealing with the distraction of other climbers (mostly Sherpas going fast up or fast down) needing to pass on the fixed ropes and a single set of steps chiseled in the ice. She didn't seem any more bothered than I was by the novelty of two helicopters hovering a few hundred meters away on some rumored film project. Sara kept concentrating on clipping her safety gear past anchors and on setting her crampons securely and on breathing steadily with each new step even though she knew a medical emergency had taken a man's life just the day before on these same ropes and in these same footsteps. Many of the Sherpas and guides we met and spoke with had some involvement in trying to mitigate the sad circumstances of the day before and it was impossible to be so high on the world's fourth highest mountain without dealing with some heavy and sad thoughts on mortality. This was balanced by the incredible beauty and expanding horizons we were granted as we climbed higher... Everest, our next door neighbor for now, just kept getting more magnificent... Until it developed a bad case of snowclouds, as did Lhotse. Although we were in view of the first tents of Camp 3, which would have made a fine goal for the day, it seemed best to turn and get a little experience descending the steep face with a little less snowfall and associated sluffs streaming down the face. At our highpoint, I pulled my GPS from a pocket and we established that Sara had just crushed her previous altitude record from her climb of Aconcagua several years back. We "arm rappelled" back down the face and tiptoed on crampon points to get across the steep bergschrund at it's base. Then on easy angled glacier again, we made excellent time down to where Bill and Linden had come out to meet us above ABC.
Yesterday morning we dodged a few more snow squalls and dodgy snow bridges and we even spied a spectacular avalanche off the side of Nuptse during our journey from ABC to Everest Base Camp. It all seemed eventful and a little crazy and excessive, to be honest. Lam Babu and Uberaj joined us for the walk to Base Camp and Kaji and Dawa went all the way up to ABC with heavy loads and still caught us before we exited the Khumbu Ice fall on the way down. Tcherring and Tuck were in camp to greet us with smiles and handshakes and... even better, Kumar greeted us with lunch. We were tired but quite happy to be down.
Today, we sat together and developed that new game plan for the coming weeks. Bill won't climb up with us on these next rounds... he won't go for the summit and Sara will. It isn't what we wanted going into this expedition, but it seems like the smart plan under the circumstances. Bill will write of his thoughts on the matter in coming days.
Best,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Mt. Everest Expedition: End of Second Rotation
May 3, 2011
Comments (21)
Bill, Sara and team, This is the verse that popped out at me when thinking of you and your team. Ephesians 2:10 We are his creation, created in Christ Jesus for good works which God prepared ahead of time so that we should walk in them. What an amazing walk you are having. What a comfort to know all was planned, and who better to walk with? Praying for you, and enjoying reading and seeing all that you are doing. Janet Kresser
Posted by: Janet Kresser on
We are a class of 5th graders in Taos that have been following the blogs as part of a social studies project. This new development made a really big impact on them when it was decided that Sara would go for the summit if possible, but that Bill would not.
Here are some thoughts that the students wanted me to try to share with Sara (their new hero) and Bill, and of course, Dave. As usual, the teacher disavows any knowledge of what might come out of her students’ mouths at any given moment…
- It’s good that he’s staying down because if he got hurt it could jeopardize everyone.
- It’s pretty brave of Sara to keep going without her dad. I hope they make it!
- I think that Sara is really strong and is doing her best. She’s always smiling in her pictures!
- It’s good that he’s not going, so now Sara doesn’t have to worry about her dad getting hurt.
- It isn’t worth the risk if he isn’t feeling up to it.
- Sara needs her dad on AND off the mountain. I am glad he’s staying safe.
- Even if he doesn’t go, I’m glad Sara’s going to try.
- Sara’s the awesomest climber in the world (except for Dave Hahn and a bunch of other old(er) people)!
- I think Bill is the bravest dad I have ever heard of. First of all, he’s up on Everest, which not a lotta people do. Then, he trusts his daughter and is there supporting her even if he can’t go himself. I think that’s very brave and I hope my dad would do the same for me to help me accomplish something I wanted to do.
Bottom line: Sara, you have a pint-sized fan club here in Taos cheering for you; Bill, I think they are ready to give you a “coolest dad on the planet” medal, and Dave, all of us send love and best wishes from home.
Posted by: Ms. E's Class on
Amazing job to you both, I keep my teaching buddies and students here at school (many of whom love to mountain climb) updated, and all are so impressed and pulling hard for a safe and fruitful trip, whatever that ends up being. Students are inspired by you both, and it’s fun for them to relate to Sara as they are many are her age, what an amazing young woman! God bless and breeze, the Hawks got one in Chicago, series tied at 1-1, knew you’d love that. God bless you both.
David Eicher
Posted by: David Eicher on
Bill, congratulations on bringing Sara to Everest and wanting to be there for her when she returns from the summit. As Lowndes said, you’re the bomb. Will be following blog closely and praying for Sara and you. Who knows - maybe next year!
Posted by: Mac Bridges on
so proud of you Bill—proud that you know when to say no. Sara, keep on keepin’ on. one step in front of the other, focused and on the spot. my prayers and thoughts are with both of you. stay safe. love, aunt mary
Posted by: aunt mary on
Bill and Sara, you have both already accomplished something that most of us only dream of! We admire you so much. And Bill, you are thousands of feet and days beyond what most of us mortal 40-somethings could even imagine doing. I think that your goal has probably been to help Sara summit more than for you to personally summit. If so, the goal is still in sight and if meant to be, it will be. All of us Dads are inspired by what you have done with and for your daughter! You da MAN!
Posted by: Bob Davis on
Keep going…one step in front of the other, stay strong, love to you both, cathy, mike, Matt, ash
Posted by: Cathy on
Bill - Abraham Lincoln lost his bid for public office 8 times before being elected President - Mark Allen lost his first 6 attempts to win the Ironman Triathlon World Championship before winning the championship 6 times in 6 attempts - cheesy, I know - but remember you got more move in your life than Mt. Everest is high - we all love you and can’t wait to see y’all again. a, k, r
Posted by: alfred olivetti on
I am thinking of you both and saying prayers daily! I am checking and re-checking the blog for updates! Know that you have lots of love and support flowing your way daily! You both are AMAZING!!!
Posted by: Jan allen on
Sara and Bill,
I have enjoyed reading your blogs. Thank you! And, yes…I log in daily (sometimes more than once a day) waiting for the latest news! Katie has been so helpful in answering my many questions, and she even brought me a book to read about climbling Mt. Everest! I think she got tired of answering my questions! I am so proud of both of you! Stay Strong!!!! Love, Coach Eubanks
Posted by: Coach Eubanks on
Sara and Bill, The W Varsity Girls LAX Cats CREAMED Lovett this afternoon 17-3! It was amazing! Varisty Boys LAX playing right now a rained out game from last night. Boys Varsity Soccer won 2-0 today against Calhoun away. Boys Golf WON State on Monday! Wildcats are on a roll in ATL.
We continue to pray for each step and for safety. Bill, you are a SUPERDAD anywhere on the mountain!! Sara, go girl go!!! Hugs from all the Caswell Family!
Posted by: Nancy Caswell on
I am thinking of you guys constantly and marvel at what you have been able to achieve so far. I stay tuned with great anticipation.
You guys are the bomb. Thanks for allowing me to follow you along on your journey. You are truly an inspiration.
Lowndes
Posted by: Lowndes Harrison on
Congrats on 23k Sara! Glad you are both safe and experiencing this tremendous opportunity. Stay focused and strong! Henry
Posted by: Henry on
hiiii!!! so my sophomore english project presentation is on friday… i have barely started (its 5 on wednesday)!!!!!! and im procrastinating so sup? i just read through peoples comments from the other day.. DIDNT KNOW YOU WERE GOING ON FRONTIER!!!! SO AM I!!!!!! then we go to guatemala… its gonna be a sara filled summer for me ;) and in response to taylors other comment… (if shes talking about what i think she is talking about) BLEHH. also i miss you in chemistry, dingle friday isnt fun with foley in our group now (JUST KIDDING) dingle friday kind of died, because you arent there. fun fact: osama bin laden is dead (in case you didnt know) well, i must go do this stupid project. i miss you a lot and i love you so much!!!!!
lilly
Posted by: lilly on
YOU CAN DO IT SARA!!! we all miss you so much and we are so proud of you! not a day goes by we don’t think about you. we could not be more proud of you and we know you can do it! you have the will power and the strength to do it, you are such an amazing role model and i am so proud you are my friend! history isn’t the same with out you :( XOXO
maysee
Posted by: Mary Carson Dobbs on
Stay strong and positive, Bill, even though to not summit must be disappointing. Without you, Sara wouldn’t be able to achieve her goals and you must be so proud of her. And be proud of yourself too! Sending much love.
Posted by: Mom / Grandma on
We are so proud of you both, stay strong! Stacey, Jeff and Sam
Posted by: The Bryant's on
I didn’t think helicopters could fly that high, so your report saying they were hovering overhead really surprised me. Anyway, best of luck to the RMI Everest team, and safe returns.
Mac McMillen
Posted by: Mac McMillen on
Bill, I’m SO proud of your work on the slopes of Everest. I’m sure you’re disappointed, but disappointment is always a doorway to something new and usually better. I’m certain you’re making the right decision and I’m proud of you for hanging it out there. The expedition ain’t over yet, and what I’ve read so far so sounds absolutely amazing!! Can’t wait to read the next updates. You must be so proud of Sarah, Go Sarah!
Posted by: Penn McClatchey on
Thanks for the updates. Bill, I’m sure you’re disappointed to not summit, but I’m sure helping Sara get there will fill your thoughts and heart over the next few weeks. I’m so impressed with all you both have done and can’t wait to hear stories in person.
Atlanta some how seems to keep winning. After upsetting Orlando in the first round of the playoffs they are now up 1-0 on the Bulls. They have a horrible offense and very inconsistent defense, but they are shooting well and seem to be getting by. Wierd. The Braves continue to hover around 500 - same old story here, good pitching and weak run support.
Life at the big W is good. The golf state championship was very close - very exciting. Three strokes separated 1st and 2nd. Jackson, Tripp and Dylan came through big time! My dad was in town and got to see it, which he enjoyed. He now thinks it’s all because of him!
I continue to enjoy fantasy golf, and also like seeing your name at the bottom of the team standings. Sorry you can’t participate but thanks for signing up so I can beat you. I have made some good picks lately though, you’d be proud.
Angela and I think you you two every day and often our pillow talk revolves around what you might be doing and experiencing on Everest (sad, but true). We’re officially “obsessed” with it now, having watching a few documentaries on the mountain. One was one a team that tried to recreate the first expedition to Everest’s peak (using much of the original equipment too). Crazy!
The world’s headline for past week may as well have been “a wedding and a funeral” as the Royal Wedding and Osama Bin Laden’s death have captured the headlines. Angela saw a girl wearing a t-shirt yesterday that said “Kate Middleton Stole My Life”. Too funny!
Ang is doing better - just got some fluids and an iron infusion yesterday, so we’re excited and hopeful that this will give her some more energy before the next round of meds, which will start when you get home. We’ll wait for you two and incorporate you in the ceremony. ;-)
Sara, all the folks at school miss you and speak of you often. We’re so proud of you for what you are doing and are all rooting for you to come home safe - summit or no summit.
That’s about it for now. Let me know if you have any minimums at Baltusrol you need to meet. I’ll be happy to run up there and take of that for you.
Be safe and thanks for all the updates. So proud of you!
James (and Ang)
Posted by: James on
all i can say is that i am thinking of you guys and sending positive prayers your way…. stay strong. xoxo,lynn
Posted by: Lynn Crow on