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Mt. McKinley West Rib
Equipment List The following is a list of equipment required for the Mount McKinley Expedition. Our philosophy is to prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering. Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering in Ashford or online. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2008 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items, visit their website at www.whittakermountaineering.com or call 800-238-5756. Pack and Bag [ ] BACKPACK:
A 6,000+ cubic inch pack is the recommended size for this climb. Loads carried on Denali can be very cumbersome; bring plenty of strapping cord and bungee cords for lashing. [ ] SLEEPING BAG:
A contemporary dryloft down bag rated to minus twenty. It should provide ample room for movement, and it should be carried in a compression stuff sack. Insulation choices are goose down or synthetic. Most guides prefer down, because it is lightweight and compactable. A waterproof bag is superb, but not mandatory. If a bag gets damp from condensation in a tent, it can be dried outside in camp. Normally, the matter of condensation is not a problem. Be wary of the so-called “temperature rating system.” Whether a bag is rated to zero degrees, minus ten or minus twenty, is an arbitrary system at best. What’s important is knowing if the person using the bag tends to sleep warm or cold. The temperature rating system is not a guarantee of warmth. Finally, putting two sleeping bags together is not recommended. [ ] COMPRESSION STUFF SACK:
A slightly oversized compression stuff sack can hold far more
than just a sleeping bag when push comes to stuff.
[ ]
SLEEPING PADS: You will need a ¾-length or full-length
inflatable pad, as well as a full-length closed cell foam pad.
The additional pad is placed on top of the inflatable. No matter
the degree a sleeping bag is rated, it will only be as good as
the pad system it rests on. Technical Gear [ ] AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER:
A climb of McKinley involves travel in avalanche terrain. A digital transceiver is preferred; analog will work as well. [ ] HELMET:
We recommend a lightweight climbing helmet. [ ] CLIMBING HARNESS:
We recommend a comfortable, adjustable climbing harness. [ ] ICE AXE:
The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5’8”, use a 65 cm. axe; 5’8” to 6’2”, use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground. [ ] ICE HAMMER:
A multi-purpose ice hammer for use in alpine snow and ice climbing. It should have a wrist leash. [ ] CRAMPONS:
The 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended. If you bring your own crampons, bring the appropriate repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools. [ ] CARABINERS:
Bring a total of seven, two of which must have locking gates. Each carabiner should be personally identifiable with colored tape or other marking. [ ] TREKKING POLES:
We recommend a lightweight, collapsible pair of trekking poles. [ ] 7 CARABINERS: Seven carabiners are required for the climb;
at least two should be locking and larger. [ ] MECHANICAL ASCENDER: An ascender is used on
fixed-rope sections of the climb, as well as part of crevasse rescue system. Head [ ] WARM HAT: A wool or synthetic hat. It should be warm, but thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet. [ ] BALACLAVA / NECK GAITER: Highly recommended for cold and windy days. [ ] BANDANA and a BASEBALL CAP: A lightweight ball cap with bandana or a sun hat works very well. [ ] 2 GLACIER GLASSES:
Two pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses are required. [ ] GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles are
required for adverse weather. Hands A good glove / mitten combination is important because of the variety of weather conditions experienced throughout your climb. Below are some recommendations. Your glove combination should include three separate layers that work well together. [ ] LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: One pair of fleece or wool gloves. [ ] INSULATED GLOVE: One pair of wind/water resistant ski gloves. [ ] HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: One pair of wind/water resistant, insulated
gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove. Upper Body [ ] BASE LAYER: One long-sleeve, medium weight top will be used as your base layer. Light colored tops are ideal, since dark colors absorb heat from the sun, and neck zippers will provide extra ventilation. [ ] INSULATING LAYERS: A variety of insulating layers work well on McKinley. Your choice of garment (fleece or soft-shell) and the number of garments (two or three) should be based on how well you do in the cold. Generally speaking, we recommend two layers that work in combination with each other. [ ] SHELL JACKET: You will need a jacket made of rain/wind resistant material with an attached hood. [ ] INSULATED PARKA with HOOD:
This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood. Lower Body [ ] BRIEFS:
Non cotton briefs or boxers are a must on the mountain, recommend 1-3 pair. [ ] BASE LAYER:
One pair synthetic light or medium weight bottoms. [ ] CLIMBING LAYER: This is a lighter
weight wind-proof/water-resistant layer that most climbers and all guides live
in throughout the expedition. A pant made of soft-shell or Schoeller
material is best and provides the versatility for comfort, protection from the
elements, and works well with your other lower body clothing layers. "I live in my Guide Pant the entire expedition. When it gets cold I put on my base layer underneath and when it is snowing or blowing I put on my shell layer over this pant. It really gives me a solid foundation of which to address any weather condition." Dave Conlan, Senior Guide [ ] SHELL LAYER:
A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are
required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in
cold, inclement weather. Optional Lower Body Layer: [ ] INSULATING LAYER:
Either a fleece, down, or synthetic layer will full-length side zippers. Feet [ ] MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS:
Expedition-style quality plastic double boot, with high altitude expedition-style inner boot is mandatory. The boots that worked well on Mount Rainier may be inadequate for Mount McKinley. Price is the best indicator. Though expensive, the function of footwear is of crucial importance. Select a brand’s “top of the line” model and it should be sufficient for Denali. The boot needs to be roomy enough to allow for good circulation. Anticipate a sock combination when sizing them (single sock, liner and sock, or two heavy socks on each foot). The idea is to adequately fill the volume of the boot, and to insulate. Wear the boots as often as possible before the climb, to determine proper fit, comfort and performance. [ ] GAITERS:
A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots, will be needed. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing. [ ] SOCKS:
Four pair, either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction. [ ] OVERBOOTS:
Expedition overboots add significant warmth, especially at high altitude. They are typically worn above 14,000’. Sometimes 11,000’. The overboots need to be compatible with the style of crampons used, whether strap-on or step-in. [ ] BOOTIES:
Goose down or synthetic fill. Booties can be worn inside of the overboots while walking around camp, which allows an opportunity to dry out inner boots. [ ] SNOWSHOES:
Select a medium-length model of snowshoe, 30” model works well for most climbers. Team members are more often ‘drafting’ as opposed to actually breaking trail, so it is not necessary to have a long pair. The ‘shoes should have an attached claw or crampon for better purchase. Miles of roped glacier travel will be logged wearing snowshoes. It is recommended to spend some time walking in them prior to the trip. Miscellaneous Items [ ] PERSONAL MEDICAL KIT: keep it light but include at least the
following items: [ ] TOILET ARTICLES: [ ] PEE BOTTLE [ ] SLEEPING MASK and EAR PLUGS for sleeping [ ] CAMERA [ ] WATCH with alarm [ ] OTHER PERSONAL ITEMS: Paperback, FM
radio (MP3 or minidisk player), or journal. Cell phones
generally work at 14,000' and above. [ ] WEBBING / CORD / ROPE:
Bring along the following material:
[ ] RESCUE PULLEY: a small, lightweight rescue pulley is optional [X] HEADLAMP IS
NOT REQUIRED FOR THIS TRIP PROVIDED EQUIPMENT RMI uses Mountain Hardwear Trango III & Trango IV tents on the expedition. Cook stoves are MSR XGK. Climbing ropes are Mammut 9.5 mm. Snow caves and/or igloos may be constructed at camps along the route; ice saws and shovels are provided. The expedition will carry radios, cell phone, probe poles, and repair kit and medical kit. Each member will have a sled for use during the expedition. Sleds aid in transporting loads between camps on the lower mountain. GENERAL PACKING INFORMATION
PRE-TRIP CHECKLIST [ ] Purchase trip insurance [ ] Return the Registration Packet to the RMI Office [ ] Reserve hotel accommodations in Talkeetna for two nights at the beginning of the trip and one night at the end of your program. [ ] Reserve rental equipment [ ] Arrange transportation to and from the airport [ ] Be in the best shape of my life! |
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1-888-892-5462 • info@rmiguides.com |
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