Mt. McKinley West Rib

Climbing Mt. McKinley
Nearing 17,000 feet, guide Alex Van Steen leads climbers to a
successful summit via the West Rib Route.

The West Rib is a beautiful line of ascent with technical climbing at altitude, and offers the qualified applicant an exciting alternative on Denali. Slope angles vary from forty to sixty degrees throughout the length of the route, and fixed line is placed extensively. We acclimate climbing the Buttress route to 14,000’ then descend to the NE Fork Kahiltna glacier and approach the base of the Rib. The expedition will be staffed with one RMI guide for every two climbers.

West Rib Expedition   $6,500

"I wanted to tell you that I had a terrific time on the West Rib. For me, it was a trip of a lifetime... Casey, Seth and Jason are amazing young men. I felt completely safe with all of them at all times. Their intelligence, strength, patience, leadership and helpfulness were far beyond any of my expectations."
— Mike R.

Prior to making your reservation, RMI must review your climbing resume. Please contact us via email (info@rmiguides.com), fax or mail.

TEAM MEMBER QUALIFICATIONS

Participation on this expedition is contingent on personal approval of the RMI guide who is leading the trip. If notified of acceptance, deposit must be received within seven days. It is not possible to hold reservations more than seven days without a deposit.

Applicants must have:

  • a current active training program
  • climbing experience as listed below
  • formal training and confidence with basic mountaineering skills as listed below (these techniques can be acquired on any of our various Expedition Skills Seminars)

Climbing Experience:

  • Confident on lengthy snow / ice climbs with pitches of no less than 30-50 degrees in angle. Climbs should be very long day or multi-day climbs.
  • Confident with basic ice climbing techniques, climbing ice of grade III or greater.
  • Previous significant climbing experience above 14,000'
Formal basic mountaineering skills training:
  • Snow anchors. Specifically the construction, placement, equalization of pickets, ice screws, deadman anchors, and bollards.
  • Running Belays
  • Belaying Techniques
  • Rapelling
  • Cramponing (ascending, traversing, descending; French technique)
  • Roped glacier travel experience
  • Rope handling skills
  • Crevasse rescue (from both the victim and rescuers perspective)
    • Anchor selection
    • Pulley methods - C and Z systems
    • Site considerations: Location. Weather. Severity of injury. Pack/sled weight
  • Fixed line travel with mechanical ascenders
  • Knots & slings - prussik, butterfly, Munter, etc
  • Ice axe self and team arrest, with and without a backpack
  • Snow camp construction
  • Pressure breathing, rest stepping
  • Self care

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