Expedition participants must have previous glacier travel experience and be familiar with various snow and ice techniques. Completion of an RMI Expedition Skills Seminar, Alaska Mountaineering Seminar, or equivalent instruction (in a multi-day Denali Prep course, through a recognized guide service), is required for team membership. Previous experience at altitude (Kilimanjaro, Mexico, Aconcagua, and Elbrus) is always a benefit. However, altitude experience is not a substitute for the mountaineering skills that are required for this expedition.

When submitting the 2009 Mt McKinley Registration, prospective climbers should list in detail: all previous mountaineering experience; formal training and skills instruction; additional snow, ice, and rock climbing experience; alpine scrambling, backpacking, and skiing, snowshoeing, summer/winter camping, and all other outdoor experience. Applicants need to present a thorough resume; one which indicates your knowledge and familiarity with the skills listed below:

• Anchors (construction, placement, and equalization; snow pickets, ice screws, deadman and bollards)
• Belaying technique (with and without a mechanical device)
• Running belays; anchor placement
• Cramponing (French technique; ascending, traversing, descending; comfortable on 40-degree to 50-degree slope angle)
• Technical ice climbing (single tool and double tool)
• Rope travel experience on heavily glaciated terrain (Mt Rainier, Mt Adams, Mt Blanc, etc)
• Rope handling technique and rope management
• Route finding on glaciated terrain
• Crevasse rescue (from the victim
rescuer perspective, each)
• Team arrest position
• Rescue leader management
• Anchor selection & placement
• Pulley methods – C and Z systems
• Site considerations: location, weather, objective hazards, severity of injury, pack/sled weight
• Fixed line travel with mechanical ascenders
• Knots and slings – prussik, butterfly, Munter, clove, etc.
• Ice axe self arrest and team arrest; with and without full backpacks
• Rappelling
• Navigation
• Snow camp / snow cave construction
• Pressure breathing, rest stepping
• Self care

(Please Note: various techniques will be reviewed at Kahiltna Base Camp before beginning our ascent of Mount McKinley. However, this review is not a substitute in lieu of training)

Mount Rainier offers excellent training opportunities because the combination of weather, altitude, and terrain so closely resembles the environs encountered on Mount McKinley. Furthermore, gaining these skills on Mount Rainier allows our staff to get to know you, and in turn provides you the opportunity to see how RMI guides conduct themselves on a mountain. This combination makes for a very strong expedition team in Alaska and is integral to our success guiding on Denali annually since May 1975. Additional information on all of our Expedition Skills Seminar programs can be found here.