Mt. McKinley from the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.

When your objective is to climb the highest mountain in North America, experience matters. RMI's tenure of conducting guided expeditions on Mt. McKinley dates from 1975 through the present. That's over thirty years of personal knowledge, accumulated on the slopes of Denali, which has been passed down to generations of RMI guides with the purpose of having safe and successful expeditions. Our staff is second to no one in the guiding industry and we are especially proud of our history within Denali National Park & Preserve. The ascent of Denali truly is major league mountaineering, and likely the trip of a lifetime. There is much to learn about becoming an expedition climber, and we are available to assist you in every phase; from answering pre-climb questions to the summit and the return, safely.

To learn more about the difficulty level of each program, mouseover the icons.
Programs	Cost	Program Length (Days)	Difficulty Level (1 - 5)
	May through July
West Buttress	$5,195	21
West Rib	$6,500	21
Alaska Seminar	$2,295	9
West Buttress – Private Climbs	$6,600	21

Between 2003 and 2006, per the National Park Service's Mountaineering Statistics, the overall climber success rate for the West Buttress Route was 56%. This is the total number of all climbers who reached the summit, divided by the total number of all climbers attempting the route, including both guided and non-guided climbers. During the same time period, RMI had an overall client success rate of 71%.

On average, we have 12 expeditions each season. And in the last four years, we have offered a total of 46 trips, with 39 of these expeditions successfully reaching the summit, an 85% success rate. The average success rate for all expeditions, both guided and non-guided for the same time period, is 65%. Below is the breakdown of RMI McKinley Expeditions per year.

• 2003: 100%. 10 Expeditions / 10 Summits
• 2004: 62%. 13 Expeditions / 8 Summits
• 2005: 91%: 11 Expeditions / 10 Summits
• 2006: 92%. 12 Expeditions / 11 Summits

Towering over the central Alaska Range, 20,320’, Denali ("The High One") is the highest summit in North America and a challenge to mountaineers from all around the world. Climbing Mt. McKinley is one of the best ways to experience the awesome and unrivaled beauty of Alaska and the Denali region. Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. is an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park & Preserve, and has organized over 250 expeditions to Mt. McKinley since 1975.

The climbing season on Mt. McKinley extends from mid-April throughout the months of May, June and July. In early season, climbers normally experience excellent snow and route conditions, and the mountain is relatively uncrowded. June is perceived as the best compromise between the colder temperatures in spring and warmer conditions of summer. July is considered late season in Alaska, but climbing conditions are great and, as a bonus, there are fewer parties on the route.

There is no environment better than Mt. Rainier for gaining the confidence and required technical skill for the climb of Mt. McKinley. Rainier’s combination of weather, altitude and terrain closely resemble the environment of Alaska, and presents limitless training possibilities. Whether you require technical training, additional glacier climbing experience or perhaps just a refresher, an RMI Expedition Skills Seminar is the proper background for joining a guided expedition to Mt. McKinley. There is simply no substitute for the personal experience you gain by training at high altitude on heavily glaciated terrain. Please feel free to contact our office and speak with a guide to help you determine which Expedition Skills Seminar is best suited for you.

Programs

• McKinley West Buttress - This is the classic route up Denali. Heavily glaciated terrain is similar to climbing Mt. Rainier, but significantly higher altitude and length of the route makes this a true expedition experience. An ascent is the trip of a lifetime for most!
• McKinley West Rib - A steeper and more challenging route, the West Rib is technically more difficult than the West Buttress. The Rib involves placement of fixed line in the approach couloir and considerable ice climbing skill. For the qualified applicant this is high adventure in Alaska!
• Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Our nine-day comprehensive seminar serves as the perfect training experience prior to climbing Denali and other great peaks. It is a fantastic introduction to mountaineering in one of the most spectacular alpine settings in the world. RMI sets the standard in guiding excellence by operating this program at a 3 to 1 climber to guide ratio.
• Private Expeditions - Customize your expedition experience! You select the team, the route, even the guide(s) of choice to lead your Private Expedition. Share your Alaskan Denali adventure with friends or family; open to all qualified applicants.