Climb Mount Elbrus Northside
Equipment List

The following is a list of equipment required for the Mt. Elbrus Northside program. Our philosophy is to prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering.

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering in Ashford or online. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2009 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below.

PACK & DUFFEL

[  ] BACKPACK: A 5,000 cubic inch pack is the recommended size for this climb. Plan on carrying 50 pounds, and equip your pack with straps for adding items. A separate summit pack is not needed.
Guides' Pick: JanSport Whittaker L Series or Gregory Palisade

[  ] 2 DUFFEL BAGS: Each duffel bag should be 7,000 to 9,000 c.i. and made of tough material with rugged zippers.
Guides’ Pick:  Mountain Hardwear Expedition Duffel Large

SLEEPING BAG & PAD

[  ] SLEEPING BAG: Rated 0° F. Either goose down or synthetic.
Guides' Pick: Mountain Hardwear Lamina 0°

[  ] SLEEPING PAD: Full length inflatable or closed cell pad.
Guides' Pick: Therm-A-Rest Prolite 4 or Cascade Designs Ridgerest

[  ] COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG:
Guides' Pick: Sea to Summit eVent®Compression Dry Sack XL

TECHNICAL GEAR

[  ] HELMET: We recommend a lightweight climbing helmet.
Guides' Pick: Grivel Salamander or Petzl Ecrin Rock

[  ] CLIMBING HARNESS: We recommend a comfortable, adjustable climbing harness.
Guides' Pick: Black Diamond Vario Adjustable

[  ] ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5’8”, use a 65 cm. axe; 5’8” to 6’2”, use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
Guides' Pick: Grivel Rainier or Black Diamond Raven Pro

[  ] CRAMPONS: The 10 to 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.
Guides' Pick: Grivel G10 or G12

[  ] TREKKING POLES: Lightweight and collapsible.
Guides' Pick: Leki Ultralite or Black Diamond Spire

 [  ] 2 CARABINERS: 1 locking and 1 non-locking.
Guides' Pick: Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate and Black Diamond Oval

HEAD

[  ] WARM HAT: A wool or synthetic hat. It should be warm, but thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.
Guides' Pick: Mountain Hardwear Micro Dome or SmartWool

[  ] BALACLAVA/ NECK GAITER
Guides' Pick: Mountain Hardwear Power Stretch or SmartWool

[  ] BALL CAP: A lightweight ball cap, bandana or sun hat.
Guides' Pick: RMI Ice Axe Hat

[  ] GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type pair of sunglasses.
Guides' Pick: Julbo Dolgan

[  ] GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.
Guides' Pick: Smith Rhythm and Smith Monashee OTG

[  ] HEADLAMP: We strongly recommend Lithium batteries as they perform well in a cold environment. We also recommend that you bring an extra set of batteries.
Guides' Pick: Petzl MYO XP

HANDS

A good glove / mitten combination is important because of the variety of weather conditions experienced throughout your climb. Below are some recommendations. Your glove combination should include three separate layers that work well together.

[  ] LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: One pair of fleece gloves.
Guides' Pick: Mountain Hardwear Kahiltna Glove  

[  ] MEDIUM WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE: One pair of wind/water resistant ski gloves.
Guides' Pick: Marmot Randonee Glove

[  ] HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE or MITTEN: One pair of wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold.
Guides' Pick: Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Mitten

UPPER BODY

[  ] BASE LAYER: One long-sleeve, light or medium weight top will be used as your base layer. Light colored tops are ideal, since dark colors absorb heat from the sun, and neck zippers will provide extra ventilation.
Guides' Pick: SmartWool Next-to-Skin Lightweight Zip-T: Men | Women or Patagonia Capilene 3: Men | Women

[  ] INSULATING LAYERS: A variety of insulating layers work well. Your choice of garment (sweater, jacket, fleece, soft-shell, etc) and the number of garments (one or two) should be based on how well you do in the cold. Generally speaking, we recommend two layers that work in combination with each other.
Guides' Pick: Mountain Hardwear Dragon Jacket and Mountain Hardwear Micro-Chill Zip T

[  ] SHELL JACKET: A jacket made of rain/wind resistant material with an attached hood.
Guides' Pick: Mountain Hardwear Pinnacle Jacket

[  ] INSULATED PARKA: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. Additionally, this oversized, insulated parka traps heat at rest breaks. The parka may be either goose down or synthetic fill and should have at least two inches of insulation thickness. It should fit over all of your clothing layers, including your wind shell. An attached, insulated hood is preferred and recommended. We do not recommend wind jackets with zip-in liners or down sweaters as substitutes as they are not warm enough for this climb.
Guides' Pick: Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero SL Parka

LOWER BODY

[  ] UNDERWEAR: Non cotton, bring 2 - 3 pair for on the mountain.
Guides’ Pick: Patagonia

[  ] HIKING SHORTS
Guides’ Pick: Mountain Hardwear Destination Short

All climbers will need the following three layers. While there are a number of possible garment choices, it is important that all your clothing layers work in conjunction with each other.  Your choice of specific brands and types of the following layers should be based upon how well you do in the cold, when in the season you are climbing and how well it fits.

[  ] BASE LAYER: One pair synthetic light or medium weight bottoms.
Guides’ Pick: Smartwool Lightweight Bottom or Patagonia Capilene 3

[  ] CLIMBING LAYER: This is a lighter weight wind-proof/water-resistant layer that most climbers and all guides live in throughout the expedition.  A pant made of soft-shell or Schoeller material is best and provides the versatility for comfort, protection from the elements, and works well with your other lower body clothing layers.
Guides’ Pick: Mountain Hardwear Windstopper Tech Pant, or Mountain Hardwear Makalu Pant

"I live in my Guide Pant the entire program. When it gets cold I put on my base layer underneath and when it is snowing or blowing I put on my shell layer over this pant. It really gives me a solid foundation of which to address any weather condition." Dave Conlan, Senior Guide

[  ] SHELL LAYER: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.
Guides’ Pick: Mountain Hardwear GTX 2.5 Pant

FEET

[  ] MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Insulated plastic boots are the preferred choice for ascents in Russia. They provide the best insulation as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Some leather boots that have Vibram soles and full shanks are also adequate, but they will need to be a stiffer design and might still result in cold feet on summit day.
Guides' Pick:
Plastic Boots: Scarpa Inverno  |  Leather Boots: La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX

[  ] HIKING BOOTS / APPROACH SHOES: Comfortable shoes for walking around camp.
Guides’ Pick: Timberland Cadion Men | Women

[  ] GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots.
Guides' Pick: Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodiles

[  ] SOCKS: Three pair, either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.
Guides' Pick: SmartWool Mountaineering or Adrenaline Heavy Crew

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

[  ] CLOTHES FOR IN TOWN AND WHILE TRAVELING: 2 pair of pants and 4 shirts are recommended.

[  ] PERSONAL MEDICAL KIT: keep it light but include at least the following items:

[  ] Band-Aids	[  ] Moleskin or blister kit	[  ] Antacids
[  ] Aspirin / Ibuprofen	[  ] Imodium	[  ] Pepto-Bismol
[  ] Small roll of adhesive tape

[  ] PRESCRIPTION MEDICATIONS: We recommend that you talk with your personal physician about obtaining the following for your personal medical kit.

• [  ] Antibiotics for traveler’s diarrhea
• [  ] Acetazolamide for altitude illness (250 mg. tabs)
• [  ]  Tylenol 3 for pain

SUNSCREEN and LIP PROTECTION:
Guides' Pick: Coppertone Sport SPF 30

[  ] MEALS:  You will need lunch snacks while on the mountain. See Food Recommendations for suggestions and number of meals needed.

UTENSILS:
[  ] Insulated drinking cup
[  ] Large plastic bowl
[  ] Spoon or fork
[  ] Pocketknife
Guides' Pick: Buck Whittaker Lumina

[  ] CHEMICAL HAND WARMERS: Bring 6 to 8.

[  ] 2 WATER BOTTLES: Two sturdy one-quart bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze. If you bring a hydration system, also bring a one-quart bottle.
Guides' Pick: Nalgene

[  ] POTABLE AQUA: Water purification for 50 quarts.

[  ] 2 - 3 LARGE GARBAGE BAGS: We recommend lining your backpack and sleeping bag stuff sack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.

TOILET ARTICLES:
[  ] Toothbrush
[  ] Toothpaste
[  ] Baby wipes
[  ] Small container of waterless hand sanitizer

[  ] TOILET PAPER

[  ] EAR PLUGS for sleeping

[  ] CAMERA

[  ] 2 AA ALKALINE BATTERIES for avalanche transceiver. Avalanche transceivers are supplied by RMI.

[  ] SEVERAL STUFF SACKS
Guides’ Pick: Sea to Summit Sn240 Siliconised Nylon Stuff Sacks

TRAVEL DOCUMENTS / MONEY

[  ] PASSPORT/VISA: The following items can be of aid if you lose your passport, airline ticket or luggage.

• [  ] Photocopy of your passport
• [  ] Photocopy of your Visa Invitation Letter
• [  ] Photocopy of your flight schedule
• [  ] Photocopy of your airline ticket receipt
• [  ] Photocopy of personal equipment inventory
• [  ] 2 extra identical passport photos

[  ] SECURITY/MONEY POUCH: and money, credit cards, etc.
We recommend taking $500 - $800 along as travel money. That amount will more than cover incidental expenses, meals off of the mountain, etc

PROVIDED EQUIPMENT

RMI provides the following group equipment and technical hardware for your climb: climbing ropes, climbing anchors, avalanche transceivers, avalanche probes and shovels, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a cell phone for emergency contact.

Pre-Trip Checklist

• [  ] Purchase trip insurance
• [  ] Russia Visa Application
• [  ] Return Registration Packet to RMI Office
• [  ] Reserve rental equipment
• [  ] Be in the best shape of your life